Superformance engine removal question

[Pman1961]

I have purchased a TKO 600 to replace the TKO 500 that is currently in my Superformance for gearing preferences. I am also considering some engine improvements as well this winter such as Keith Craft Signature Heads, little more camshaft and swapping the Victor Jr. style intake for the RPM Air Gap. My question is would you recommend removing the tranny from the interior by removing the tunnel and then remove the motor seperately? Or...has anyone pulled the engine tranny as a unit? Any advice will be greatly appreciated.

[bobcowan]

I prefer to remove those assemblies individually. Especially the TKO's, because they're bigger and heavier than the T5's. Smaller lighter packages are esy to manage, and less risk of body damage if you make a mistake.

I also would not remove it through the interior. Mostly because of the risk of damaging the interior. I'd hate to leave a trail of oil behind.

Although mine is an FFR, the dimensions are about the same. I don't even remove the hood to get the engine out.

[Blas]

No problem pulling the engine and trans as a unit...especially with a small block.
The tunnel removal option you spoke of is a great option if you were in need of a clutch replacement only. No need to remove the engine, headers, coolant, etc.
Taking the tunnel out involves removing the seats and the the screws securing the tunnel to the car. BUT, the most fun part is seperating the bonded seam between the tunnel annd car...Truely a PITA...I have found that the tool used for removing radiator hoses...kinda like a bent ice pick on a screwdriver handle works great on the tunnel removal task....Then clean off the black adhesive and use a piece of self adhearing foam to take the place of the "adhesive from hell".
I don't know if the bellhousing is interchangable between the 500 & 600...
Remove the hood...
You might want to check into that too...

[Pman1961]

Thank you for your responses. I really do not like the idea of removing the tunnel fearing the interior will never look the same. Is there enough room to unbolt the transmission from the motor and support it from underneath, remove the motor independently, remove tranny. Next after motor work is complete and before in stalling in car would be to install clutch, bellhousing, test fit tranny for alignment, remove tranny from motor, put tranny in its place from under the car and support, install motor independently, bolt tranny to motor, etc. Does this seem like something that will work. I would prefer to pull the motor independently so I could leave the hood on and not worry as much about banging the car. Thanks again!

[bobcowan]

Originally Posted by Pman1961

Thank you for your responses. I really do not like the idea of removing the tunnel fearing the interior will never look the same. Is there enough room to unbolt the transmission from the motor and support it from underneath, remove the motor independently, remove tranny. Next after motor work is complete and before in stalling in car would be to install clutch, bellhousing, test fit tranny for alignment, remove tranny from motor, put tranny in its place from under the car and support, install motor independently, bolt tranny to motor, etc. Does this seem like something that will work. I would prefer to pull the motor independently so I could leave the hood on and not worry as much about banging the car. Thanks again!

That's the way I would do it. Smaller packages are easier to handle, less risk of an accident. I'v R&R'ed my engine 6-8 times over the years. Always do it just like the above picture.

Getting the trans out shouldn't be that big of a deal, either. The easiest would be a rolling trans jack. But you can also use a motorcycle/ATV jack. Either raise the fram enogh to roll it under, or use the crane to lift it out.

[KVenom]

Originally Posted by bobcowan

That's the way I would do it. Smaller packages are easier to handle, less risk of an accident. I'v R&R'ed my engine 6-8 times over the years. Always do it just like the above picture.

Getting the trans out shouldn't be that big of a deal, either. The easiest would be a rolling trans jack. But you can also use a motorcycle/ATV jack. Either raise the fram enogh to roll it under, or use the crane to lift it out.

I agree! Off with the hood, Raise the rear off the floor a few feet Grab the engine and tranny as a unit and pull it. This is easy if you have the luxury of a lift and hoist with leveler. If not you can still raise the rear and support with stands. Raising the back of the car helps reduce the severe angle needed to clear and pull as a unit. I install in this manner with my builds.

[Nantucket427]

I took it out separately once but put it back as one unit. It wasn't a snap but not bad. We did use an over head 3 ton crane one time that took all of the effort out of it. It is much easlier to get the clutch in right out in the open. The header bolts take alot of patience but you will have to work that out.Take the hood off, drain the transmission (good time to put in some of that slick shifter stuff) cover the fenders with padding, lay the headers aside, we used an engine leveler and just pull it.

[Randy Rosenberg]

Take the hood off - it is every easy to remove. Just put some tape on the hinge where the bolts are, so you can mark their location for re-installation. Honestly, I would not risk an engine removal without removing the hood. With the hood off, you can easily R/R the engine with the tranny attached.

[Excaliber]

I removed my engine (427) and trans (top loader) separately, by removing the tunnel (carpet, seats, bunch of screws, sealing compound, yeah it was brutal). I put the engine/trans combo back in together, removed hood, tight fit, to much risk of damaging something. Next time I'll separate them and just deal with the tunnel issue.
That's on an ERA.

[jwoodard]

Whether you pull the engine/tranny as a unit or pull them separately, you do need to remove your hood. Trying to do this without removing the hood will be darn near impossible and surely lead to some body/engine compartment damage.
You definitely can pull them out separately, but why? Also, unlike some other cars, you can't drop the tranny out from under neath without moving the engine forward. The center frame member that has the tranny mount is situated such that it does not allow moving the trans out rear ward.

[madmaxx]

I would use blankets on every fender and have no paint visible, one scratch or gouge and you loose. The picture above with just the fend protector, wow, that is a gamble when it comes to scratches.

Hydraulic hose could break, seal fail, somebody kicks the hoist, at least with some padding you will avoid the accidental scratches.

with the right balancing bar you can install the engine and trans together without any issues. no brainer remove the hood.

[vanoochka]

Two of us took my engine and transmission out and put them back in as a unit through the front. No damage. Follow the advice already given, plus wrap the front cross member with cardboard and go slowly.

[ekrupa2]

Did my install as one unit...no issues at all and plenty of room to work.

[Pman1961]

The response has exceeded my expectations. Seems as though most SPF owners that have responded chose to remove the engine/tranny as a unit noting removal of the hood and lots of protection to the paint work on the body and frame. I will consider each response when the time comes. The advice to raise the rear of the car to lessen the angle of the motor for removal had not crossed my mind. My brother and I installed a motor/tranny in his Prostreet Truck. It took every bit of adjustment on the engine tilt to clear the compartment. Thanks guys!

[Jim Vander Wal]

I pulled the trans out through the interior removing the trans tunnel. Way easier and the trans won't come out the bottom w/o moving the engine.

Then when I decided to pull the engine out I took it out over the side.

If you want to put it in as a unit make sure the hoist's arm is long enough. It's a long reach from the front of the car to the middle of the engine.

Jim

[Pman1961]

Okay...It won't be long and the new motor will be going back into the Cobra. I took the engine and transmission out seperately. Motor was fine but the transmission was a pain removing by myself and I had to rotate the tranny 90 degrees so that the lever that the shifter attached would clear the tunnel. For the install...should I decide to try and install as a unit I have a few questions. (1) If I remove the partial shift lever and plate will I have enough room to reinstall theses components in its resting position? (2) The front end is to long to install engine and tranny as a unit using the front approach (pulled motor using side approach) with my current engine hoist. It may be possible that I could use a hoist from the structure above and roll the car around as needed. People don't freak out!! I built my garage and I have some structural engineering experience so the ceiling won't come crashing down. I'm not opposed to installing as individual components just seeking experienced advice. Any further suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

[ken swart]

As long as the structure will take the strain, you could use a comealong chained to the rafters.
That's what I did both times I installed my SBF/TKO, very contolled.
But you have to be able to roll the car.

[Pman1961]

Thanks Ken.

[PANAVIA]

Out the front , remove the hood + 1. -- The tunnel urathane sealer is nasty and you will ruin your carpet getting the tunnel out. --

[Great Asp]

That black gooey stuff is nasty, but I have done 4 or 5 removals, I don't remember the carpet being a problem.

E