Canton Oil Thermostat Install

[nblumberg]

Is it possible for you to rotate the unit 90 degrees so that the oil cooler input and output are facing forwards? That way you might be able to get away with 45 degree bends instead of the 90s?

Can you provide more details on the mounting device and what portion of it is weak? What is the distance between the two mounting holes on the clamp?

-Nathan

[jwoodard]

Nathan,

Do you mean rotated like this? I still used 90's.


I also experienced the same oil pressure change as Dean.

[RedBarchetta]

Originally Posted by nblumberg

Is it possible for you to rotate the unit 90 degrees so that the oil cooler input and output are facing forwards? That way you might be able to get away with 45 degree bends instead of the 90s?

Can you provide more details on the mounting device and what portion of it is weak? What is the distance between the two mounting holes on the clamp?

-Nathan

As I mentioned in my original post, if I didn't like my remote oil breather tank so much I would have oriented the t-stat just like Jim Woodward's. And as he just indicated, the same +5 PSI at the gauge and not much benefit either way (though I'm sure a physicist would argue correctly that the flow dynamics of the oil would be improved with Jim's set-up over my vertical one). The pic angles will fool you...there isn't any room (even with the 45s) to rotate the t-stat 90 degrees. I would have to fabricate a longer (and thicker) bracket and place the t-stat closer to the water pump pulley. Hmmm...maybe I'll mess around with that next winter (now you have me thinking about it...dangerous! ).

The mounting device? It's basically a band clamp (don't know the proper name, because it's really not a true band clamp) that is riveted to a formed steel strap with two holes roughly 3" apart. The cross member is 2" square stock, so you are forced to fabricate a small aluminum bracket, fasten the bracket to the cross member, and then fasten the t-stat band clamp to the fabbed bracket. It's hard to see my bracket because I painted it the chassis color (including touching up the rivets...I'm such a detail freak) and I also rounded off the corners so that I wouldn't cut-up my hands when working on the front of the engine. I obviously paid $190 for the t-stat and they threw in the band clamp for free.

Thanks to all for the compliments and to Jim for showing me his set-up...his pics pretty much made me decide which route I was going to go with.

-Dean

[Mike Bartlett]

Isn't their an inline oil thermostat? Anyone ever used one and how well does it work.

Dean, I do like your setup though!

Mike

[RedBarchetta]

Originally Posted by Mike Bartlett

Isn't their an inline oil thermostat? Anyone ever used one and how well does it work.

Dean, I do like your setup though!

Mike

Thanks, Mike. As far as "inline" set-ups, this is considered one option. There is another one made by Mocal and on the surface does appear to be simpler (a cast housing with integral AN fittings vs 100% billet). However at the end of the day you will still need to plumb it about the same. A third option is to have the thermostat built into the sandwich block adapter. Clearance issues between block and frame (on many of our cars, not just SPF) prohibit using this thicker adapter. I think Earl's (the AN/hose folks) has also just come out with a unit that is similar to the Canton.

-Dean