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Old 12-07-2014, 08:37 PM
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Post Will this work for a mild 302?

First time with Webers. Looking for advice and perhaps some inspiration.

Here's what I have:

IDF 48 (96 vintage)
37 Venturi / Aux Venturi 4.5
60 idle jet
F5 E tube
155 main jet /195 air corrector
50 pump jet / 40 pump exhaust
200 needle valve

Camshaft - Hyd roller
222 intake / 232 exhaust (@.050)
.510 intake / .532 exhaust lift (1.6 rocker)
112 lobe separation

9.8 compression
58cc aluminum heads / 1.94 int / 1.60 exh

What should I expect on the initial fire up?

Any suggestion on jetting or E tubes is hugely appreciated.

Thanks,
289FIA
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Old 12-07-2014, 11:49 PM
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I'd say if you have a well designed linkage that has all the carbs moving exactly together, then your initial setup should be close enough for a startup, carb synchronization, mixture adjustment, idle speed etc.

FYI, I ran a set of 44 IDFs with a 38 venturi on a 308.
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Old 12-08-2014, 02:43 AM
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I'd go smaller on the main jet & leave the air corrector. Really, save some money & , leave that circuit stock. If you are going the "tune yourself" route, as I did. Jetting by replacing parts is going to break the bank. The way to go is to close them up with solder & re drill them. When you get it where you like it, buy the proper sized jets & come out money ahead.
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Old 12-08-2014, 06:44 PM
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Thanks Gaz64. I needed the reassurance that this combo could actually run!

*13* Good advice on solder & re-drilling. Makes sense!

I’m sending the exhaust primaries out to have O2 bungs welded in. Hoping the use of an Air/Fuel Ratio meter will reduce the "trial & error" time!
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Old 12-08-2014, 10:05 PM
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289FIA,

Have you read the article on Weber Tuning by Tennessee Tim? If not, I would highly recommend that you do so before you start on your Webers.

Tuning Webers

Cheers,

John
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Old 12-09-2014, 12:08 PM
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Another article, although on DCOE, applicable to IDF, since they function the same. DCOE sidedraught, IDF downdraught.

http://www.classicrallyclub.com.au/d..._DVAndrews.pdf
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Old 12-11-2014, 07:54 PM
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jhirasak
I’ve read Tennessee Tim’s article several times. Though it’s dedicated to IDAs, the theory is pertinant for IDFs.

Gaz64
Thanks for the link. All information is very useful. I like the formulas!

Valve cover interference with the accelerator pump rod is preventing my first start up.
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Old 12-11-2014, 11:13 PM
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I've seen your thread about show your valve covers, and you've probably seen the thread link for another guy with the same issue.

The trouble is the early IDFs had a different pump actuating lever, roller follower like IDA, and would have had no clearance issues.
The linkage became like Dellorto DHLA at some point, probably when they became non-Italian.
The manifold was probably designed for early carbs.

A bit of a problem to come up with a good remedy. A brazed in welch plug might work if you have rocker clearance. You would have to cut the lid off a rocker cover for experimentation.
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Last edited by Gaz64; 12-11-2014 at 11:16 PM..
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Old 12-17-2014, 09:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gaz64 View Post
The trouble is the early IDFs had a different pump actuating lever, roller follower like IDA, and would have had no clearance issues

The manifold was probably designed for early carbs.
Gaz64:

Think you nailed it. Looks like it's time to get creative. If only I had welding skills...
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Old 02-24-2015, 09:32 PM
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you are better off with the IDA's. The IDF's are not period correct if that matters to you. And they have a dismal resale value in comparison to the IDA's.

They, the IDF's, do have a choke, but I have not felt my car needed one to start, even on days below freezing.

your cam would work better with a wider LSA. 112 is not optimal. 114 is barely acceptable, with a 115 or 116 being the better fit with Webers.

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Old 02-25-2015, 06:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 289FIA View Post
jhirasak
I’ve read Tennessee Tim’s article several times. Though it’s dedicated to IDAs, the theory is pertinant for IDFs.

Gaz64
Thanks for the link. All information is very useful. I like the formulas!

Valve cover interference with the accelerator pump rod is preventing my first start up.
With my tall valve covers, I use a 1/2 inch spacer under the carbs to get the clearance for the accelerator pump rod. Works great.

I can get a photo if it will help.
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