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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 08-09-2012, 05:25 PM
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The seller has probably figured out that the Jerico is not the most street friendly transmission, and consequently the new owner will figure this out too.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 08-09-2012, 05:35 PM
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12yearslater - if we're thinking that an SPF with an FE is too good to be true at $58K asking price
Superformance MkIII 427SC Cobra, Indigo Blue, For Sale

...then what say you for this little ripper (ERA 289 asking under $50K)?
PhotoPost Classifieds - ERA 289 FIA: for sale on eBay - Powered by PhotoPost Classifieds
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 08-09-2012, 07:37 PM
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Priced to sell I believe. All that power but with those crap tires it'll never use it. Why do people throw 70-80K in a car and put tires like that on it? Seems to me that small blocks, especially strokers, retain a higher percentage on resell. Not saying small blocks are better, just maybe more preferred in today's market.
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 08-10-2012, 03:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madmaxx View Post
My old man had a 460 in his Lincoln mark 4. My comment was abrasive, so be it. I drove a SPF with a 460 monster torque, let the clutch out and rpm wouldn't even dip. Ignorant is true, I was told or read you can't rev high because they were built for trucks due to torque and therefore couldn't rev high and weren't designed too.
Guess I was a little short with my response yesterday. Sorry, wasn't feeling very good and kind of took it out on you.

Felt much better last night after I coughted up that big fur ball.
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 08-10-2012, 08:37 AM
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Please, no sorry needed, I spout off at stuff all the time, as my neighbor calls me Archie bunker, and yes I take it as a compliment.

I had a no name 302 in a bdr and had as much fun as any of them, it has a 3.91 rearend and I made 10 grand when I sold it. It was the most reliable engine and now has 40k assssss beating miles on it, and I mean beat.
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 08-10-2012, 10:14 AM
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Default Making the right choice

I just spoke with the seller of this car this morning. He is the second owner (with 500 miles). I asked him directly regarding the shifter location and said that it was already built when he got it and it was built with originality in mind. I do not think that offsetting the shifter six inches to the left has originality in mind, but I would want to fit a 5-speed anyway. It is still a very nice machine with a very desirable engine built by a reputable shop. He explained that he does not want to "beat up" the car by driving it around in his area of Lake Tahoe with the sand and gravel on the roads. Also admitted to buying the car as an investment and just selling it for that reason. No problem there, maybe he bought it at a great price. I'm tempted to make an offer, but after reading this thread, not really sure because of the afformentioned
"debugging" stages of these cars. I have never owned a Cobra, but have been working hard and saving for the right car. I thought I'd buy one with a SB stroker and save some money on the purchase and then build up my Genesis block on my own and install later. Then realized I was going to need headers etc. to fit the big block. Just trying to buy what I want without making common mistakes. I like he car fine, don't love the blue/silver stripe too much though. I'm more of a silver/no stripe fan. But I could make a concession on color choice for the right car.
Any suggestions or guidance would be much appreciated.

BTW; This is my first post on this cool site.
Thanks
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 08-10-2012, 10:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rub35 View Post
I I'm tempted to make an offer, but after reading this thread, not really sure because of the afformentioned
"debugging" stages of these cars. I have never owned a Cobra, but have been working hard and saving for the right car. I thought I'd buy one with a SB stroker and save some money on the purchase and then build up my Genesis block on my own and install later. Then realized I was going to need headers etc. to fit the big block. Just trying to buy what I want without making common mistakes.
Don't let the "debugging" thing scare you. A well completed SPF done by someone who knows what they are doimg will not require much "fettling".

Expect to retighten some exhaust system bolts, reset the timing after some miles, perhaps adjust the ride height after some miles but nothing major and nothing beyond what an involved owner or qualified repair shop would do.

Most SPF MK IIIs never have a warranty claim filed on them and the bulk of issues are engine related, usually involving the "mega horsepower" powertrains.

You can exchange the tranny for a TKO600 and fix the tunnel quite easily. Turn around and sell the old gearbox and your cost has been halved. You will need a different bellhousing and perhaps clutch system but nothing huge or ultra expensive. Take out the seats (eight bolts), remove the tunnel to exchange the bell and trans and fix the shifter hole while the tunnel is out. A new piece of carpet and shifter boot ring and you are stylin'!

And I agree about tires. I will not deliver a car with BFG TAs on it. I don't want to be party to a homicide!
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Last edited by Mark IV; 08-10-2012 at 10:32 AM.. Reason: added
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 08-10-2012, 11:15 AM
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Make an offer if its what you want, if not pass on it. I bought my SPF very cheap a few years back. It wasnt eactly what I wanted but once you own it, youll forget its not the right color or whatever. That car will be tons of fun and draw lots of attention, and you may get it for mid 50s. I wouldnt worry about debugging, as long as your somewhat mechanically inclined. Just PLEASE put some decent tires on it if you buy it. you may be able to live with that tranny. I would suggest finding out what the gear ratios are to see if it fits yur intended use.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 08-10-2012, 01:16 PM
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Thanks for the input. So from what I saw on the website, a Jerico is just a hot-rodded 4-speed with a wide or close ratio gear set. It seems like it would be a stout work piece, but without the luxury of low cruising R's on the highway.
...Boy, you guys really don't care for the BFG tires huh? They must suck on these cars.
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 08-10-2012, 01:25 PM
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Since I have the attention of some experienced Cobra guys, I'd like to know some opinions on having a big (aluminum vs iron) block car and perhaps a Roush 427R engined car or even a stroker engined car that seems to be the most common engine choice for most. I have no first hand experience other than taking a ride with a mechanic in a Roush 427R powered MkIII car in Braselton, GA at the now defunct McMichaels Motorsports during a test drive.
I like the idea of a lot of power just like everyone else.
Again, thanks for any input.
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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 08-10-2012, 01:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rub35 View Post
...Boy, you guys really don't care for the BFG tires huh? They must suck on these cars.
They only thing they have going for them is the "look" if you like that "look".

They are hard, often out-of round, hard to balance and don't spit on the road, they will lose traction.

The Avons are the BEST street legal option....and the most expensive!. The Mickey Thompson S/Rs are good. A step down from them is the Mickey Thompson S/T and Cooper Cobra twins (they are made by the same company at the same facility). The Goodyear GT IIs were popular but are only fair in reality and no longer available in the correct sizes.

All of that horsepower and control must be put through four small contact patches to keep your butt out of the ditch (or worse) so the best tires you can buy are a good investment. Do you want to do donuts when you drop the hammer in front of the guys you are showing off for?

It amazes me that guys will spend THOUSANDS for extra horsepower and then put tires on the car that can't transmit it to the ground!
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 08-10-2012, 02:21 PM
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[quote]All of that horsepower and control must be put through four small contact patches to keep your butt out of the ditch (or worse)QUOTE]
Yes, I know contact patches, I roadraced motorcycles for many years
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 08-10-2012, 03:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 12yearslater View Post
Saw this car listed on another site. It sounds damn nice and priced, IMO, pretty good. Is there a reason for the low price, i.e. because it doesn't have a side oiler engine?


Here are some details. Superformance MKIII for 57,900. Only 500 miles since finished.


Shelby-Roush aluminum-block/big-block 427FE V8 stroker; delivers approximately 600 horsepower and 600 ft./lbs. of torque
Shelby 504 cid 6-bolt main block
Edelbrock aluminum heads [10.0:1 compression ratio—thrives on 91 octane pump gas]
Blue Thunder aluminum medium-riser 2x4 intake
steel crankshaft—4.375" stroke and 4.280" bore
solid lifter roller tappet 600+ lift camshaft
forged aluminum pistons with "H" (high tensile strength) connecting rods
dual/dueling 600 cfm Holley carburetors with a nitrous setup for an extra 200 hp (Super Snake power)
Shelby aluminum 8 qt. oil pan, valve covers, air cleaner and water pump
MSD all electronic ignition ensemble
ceramic-coated headers
polished SS (stainless steel) surge tank



Smiths Instruments gauges [with correct reverse-winding speedometer]
Lucas toggle switches
Moto-Lita steering wheel
premium German leather
locking glovebox
Cobra mats
Superformance soft top, side windows and tonneau cover


tubular upper & lower control arms
Wilwood brakes—all 4 corners
Bilstein coil-over shocks
trunk-mounted maintenance-free battery with shutoff switch
SS (stainless steel) quick jacks
clear bra in front & clear stone guards in rear
In my humble opinion, I would contact the seller, ask the same questions we all have, have the car inspected and test driven.
It is a nicely equipped vehicle.
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 08-10-2012, 03:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rub35 View Post
Since I have the attention of some experienced Cobra guys, I'd like to know some opinions on having a big (aluminum vs iron) block car and perhaps a Roush 427R engined car or even a stroker engined car that seems to be the most common engine choice for most. I have no first hand experience other than taking a ride with a mechanic in a Roush 427R powered MkIII car in Braselton, GA at the now defunct McMichaels Motorsports during a test drive.
I like the idea of a lot of power just like everyone else.
Again, thanks for any input.

Dart block 427 or 454. Easy 600 HP. The new AFR 220 heads look to be a great fit for this size Windsor. Plenty of room in the engine bay to work on and lots of affordable aftermarket adders. Tons of torque for the street.
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 08-10-2012, 04:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark IV View Post
It amazes me that guys will spend THOUSANDS for extra horsepower and then put tires on the car that can't transmit it to the ground!
I agree. Poor tires are dangerous.
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 08-10-2012, 06:41 PM
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These are simple cars, no antilock brakes, ac, computers. If you can't fix simple problems cobra may not be for you. I had turn signal probs, fuel level gauge, term broke on coil, loose bolts, as you can see not brain surgery but if you have to take in every time to a mechanic could be a real pita! Ground cable broke in trunk, easy to fix but thank god for this forumn to tell me where to look Blas.


Pos oil pressure gauge fitting leaked, if your is yellow replace with braided stainless. Clutch reservoir leaked, seep rated and used seal all on o ring, a lot of sheet that should not happen on a 45k roller!





Quote:
Originally Posted by rub35 View Post
I just spoke with the seller of this car this morning. He is the second owner (with 500 miles). I asked him directly regarding the shifter location and said that it was already built when he got it and it was built with originality in mind. I do not think that offsetting the shifter six inches to the left has originality in mind, but I would want to fit a 5-speed anyway. It is still a very nice machine with a very desirable engine built by a reputable shop. He explained that he does not want to "beat up" the car by driving it around in his area of Lake Tahoe with the sand and gravel on the roads. Also admitted to buying the car as an investment and just selling it for that reason. No problem there, maybe he bought it at a great price. I'm tempted to make an offer, but after reading this thread, not really sure because of the afformentioned
"debugging" stages of these cars. I have never owned a Cobra, but have been working hard and saving for the right car. I thought I'd buy one with a SB stroker and save some money on the purchase and then build up my Genesis block on my own and install later. Then realized I was going to need headers etc. to fit the big block. Just trying to buy what I want without making common mistakes. I like he car fine, don't love the blue/silver stripe too much though. I'm more of a silver/no stripe fan. But I could make a concession on color choice for the right car.
Any suggestions or guidance would be much appreciated.

BTW; This is my first post on this cool site.
Thanks

Last edited by madmaxx; 08-10-2012 at 06:45 PM..
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 08-11-2012, 06:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madmaxx View Post
These are simple cars, no antilock brakes, ac, computers. If you can't fix simple problems cobra may not be for you. I had turn signal probs, fuel level gauge, term broke on coil, loose bolts, as you can see not brain surgery but if you have to take in every time to a mechanic could be a real pita! Ground cable broke in trunk, easy to fix but thank god for this forumn to tell me where to look Blas.


Pos oil pressure gauge fitting leaked, if your is yellow replace with braided stainless. Clutch reservoir leaked, seep rated and used seal all on o ring, a lot of sheet that should not happen on a 45k roller!
Not at all worried about that type of stuff. I can fix just about anything. Just wasn't sure of the average build quality on the SPF's. Sounds like they are very high quality and most owners are completely satisfied.
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