My Harrison build

[Ryder]

I've decided to document my build of a new Harrison on here for opinions, advice, and the interest of other members. Plus I figure it'll help stay motivated when progress is slow.
Now, it's only early days yet but I finally have some pics to show! Warwick sent me some photos today of the car sitting at his place in the final stages of construction at his end - very exciting!










I'm yet to see the car in the flesh, and won't be picking it up for another month. But from the photos, the finish on the fibreglass looks a lot better than I was expecting, and pretty straight too - havent heard a bad thing said about his cars yet though!
Will be getting the windscreen and the front A-arms + shocks and springs with it. Hopefully will be a roller soon after.

So, my goals for the build. I want to build this as a car capable of being a daily driver, I don't care how practical that may or may not be. I spent years using a sportsbike as a daily driver, still do, even doing grocery shopping ect with just a backpack - trust me I'm more than happy to adjust my lifestyle to fit around my passions!
I don't want a show car, but I want it to look really nice and be well built. I'm not particularly interested in making an original looking copy, in fact I mean to add a lot of modern stuff to the car in a tasteful way. I'd like to add various influences from motorcyles into it as well, such as playing around with the idea of making my own carbon fibre side pipes, and a very bright paint colour (though it goes without saying it'll have the traditional stripes!)

Going to be using an LS2 or L98 6L engine and manual gearbox combo to power it, planning on buying a wrecked car in the near future and using whatever I practicaly can from it. Yeah, I know I'm not much of a traditionalist , but some of you guys on here suggested it and looking into it closely it seems to be a very practical and strong powerplant to use. See? Advice from this site has been very useful already!
Also was planning on using whatever engineer Warwick reccomends, don't know his name yet but should probably talk to him soon.

Lots of other things to figure out along the way, I could plan it now but knowing me the plan will change several times for minor stuff. So I figure I'll wing it along the way!


So. Plan for the next month - pick up the car. Get excited about it, and finally realise exactly how much work I've gotten myself into After that I reckon celebratory beers may be in order!

[Rog246]

Well welcome to the madness. Great kit choice IMO but then I'm a bit biased in that area. Before you turn to the darkside have a good look at the new Ford engine!! Great motor and its blown as well. And as everyone knows its probably better to be blown than stroked
Rog

[letsboogie351]

Welcome. Congratulations on your immenent arrival. I am sure a few celabratory drinks won't go astray. Even if you have too many..........it won't dull the excitement!

Doug

[Merv and Sharon]

Well done Ryder. I am sure you will be happy with the Harrison. Warwick is honest and good to deal with.

In terms of general experience with his car, and reflected in the experience of others, there are a few areas where you can improve on the original design. Make sure the body is perfectly aligned with the chassis, particularly at the rear. There could be some variations, making wheel clearance variable between sides. Also, the standard AVO shocks have been a constant source of disappointment for me and a number of others. They can be re-built under warranty (but that is a pain in itself) but then the problems can often return. Another choice of shock is advised, but that is up to you. There are threads on this.

The standard rear suspension only allows limited adjustment and can be modified at your stage to establish an adaptable upper mount, which then allows for various coil-over combinations, angles and so on. This can also be done later also.

The Nissan diff ratio of 4.1 or 4.3 is too short, even with a 6-speed 'box, in my experience. There are Nissan diffs that have a between 3.5 and 3.7 that suit either the Ford or Holden motors. The prices are not great on these. If you want to use this for cruising and daily purposes, the short diff ratio would drive you crazy. Also previous threads on these.

The standard brake master cylinder always did not do enough for the rear brakes and many builders have had problems with these at registration or engineering. Warwick has some practical solutions, and previous threads on the Forum show these and other useful ideas.

I think that you may have the extended body (seems so in the pic). If so that is good as the distance between the (taller) driver, the steering wheel and the dashboard lip (when padded) can be pretty limited in the (or any) standard chassis.

Overall, these issues may all have been addressed in subsequent versions of the chassis but there may still be things that you can do. The Harrison fuel tank, radiator and so on are great and the car needs little insulation and seems to be quite cool in the footwells.

Warwick recommends a local engineer in northern NSW. He is excellent and very helpful. That is a long way from you, however, and you will need some one more local. There are enough Cobras in your region to help you with advice.

Keep in touch, as there are many here willing to help.

[byroncobra]

Hi Ryder

Congrats on your decision to go with Warwicks car, I'm another Cobrakits builder.

Professor Merv has done a great job of pointing out common issues that you may want to address, however I haven't had issues with the avo shockies but double check the spring rates and length for your application.

I agree on the diff issues. Mines a 6 speed T56 box and gearing is too low. 6th is great for the freeway but I'd go a 5 speed if doing it again, I'm too busy on trackdays grappling with 4th and 5th on the straights. I'm looking for a taller diff.

Also be wary when ordering your wheels as the offset will differ depending on which Nissan rear end you source. They're generically R32 and 33's but widths (and ratio) vary depending on series, so if your offsets and rim sizes are out you'll get guard clearance problems. So get the whole thing fitted up before you buy wheels I suggest and measure where your hubs are for correct offset. Caster/camber adjustments are greatly improved with aftermarket suspension mods as well.

These issues are covered at length on this forum.

I'm trying to recall other issues during my build, but funnily you forget the frustrations 'cause the whole process for me was so satisfying and fun.

Ford or GMH? ........... who gives a toss, I'm really happy with my Windsor. Any V8 in a 1000kg car is more power than most can effectively use

Anyway look forward to your progress.......wish it was me again

[boxhead]

Great to see a new member running a build thread, I did and it made life so much easier, sometimes we get the blinkers on and cant see other options, in here you will get them, it is up to you then to decide what suits your needs best.

Bright colors sounds good, Have you caught up with other Cobra guys in Townsville yet?
I get over that way about once every year.

Have fun and keep the build going strong.

[Merv and Sharon]

Hmmm Greg. True words there: "Also be wary when ordering your wheels as the offset will differ depending on which Nissan rear end you source. They're generically R32 and 33's but widths (and ratio) vary depending on series, so if your offsets and rim sizes are out you'll get guard clearance problems. So get the whole thing fitted up before you buy wheels I suggest and measure where your hubs are for correct offset. Caster/camber adjustments are greatly improved with aftermarket suspension mods as well".

I found that aspect very tricky and eventually had Dragway make me up a set exactly as I needed them (expensive option however). Some of the cheaper US-sourced ones can't have enough back space build in. Anyway get lots of Harrison wheel photos. We all have 'em. I think Greg even has some gold ones somewhere?

[Tenrocca]

Originally Posted by Merv and Sharon

I think Greg even has some gold ones somewhere?

Hmmmhaaawhat....gold rims..what the...............back to sleep.

[spookypt]

Originally Posted by Tenrocca

Hmmmhaaawhat....gold rims..what the...............back to sleep.

Ryder, it will be great to watch your progress. If you need any info on the Skyline rear end get in touch with Ozvenom (Scotty Hampson). He knows pretty much all you need to know about them things!

Big thanks to Greg, Andrew and Merv for taking me back... Argh the memories.



Spookypt

[Ryder]

Thanks a lot for the input guys! Can't wait to get this project started properly

Originally Posted by Merv and Sharon

...

Thats absolute gold, very helpful - I knew about some of those issues but not all of them, and this is the perfect stage to work on resolving them. Why re-invent the wheel?

I do need to reseach the skyline rear end, I'm sure it's been covered on here so I'll dust off the search funtion button and find out what ratios come from what cars.

With the wheels, I fully appreciate there may be dramas getting offsets correct, however I'm buying some vintage wheel replicas of another member on here. He had then on his Harrison. They look as new and at $1000, I cant really turn them down. If they aren't quite right, I'm a qualified fitter/turner by trade, so I might be able to machine spacers or machine the rims and re-powdercoat them, or if it looks way out then I can always sell them for probably what I paid - bit of a gamble but I think it'll be ok... hopefully...
If not, well it'll have been a good excuse to convince the wife I need a home lathe

Oh, yes I live in Townsville right now but am moving back to Sydney for work, for the next 6 years at least. Will be driving down with a car trailer and picking up the car on the way, and it'll be the first thing to get to the new house before the rest of our stuff arrives. See? Got my prorities right at least!

[Dimis]

Originally Posted by Ryder

....and it'll be the first thing to get to the new house before the rest of our stuff arrives. See? Got my prorities right at least!

Haha. You're going to fit in well around here.

[Ryder]

Not a Cobra, but this is the trailer I bought for the project. Cost me only $2500 with several months rego, which I thought was pretty good - it's several years old, the paint is a little rough, there's some minor corrosion and the mags are pointless. Spent this morning pulling the hubs apart and re-greasing the bearings (they were a bit dry, but ok) and checked the drum brakes which were pretty good. The only thing it needs is a missing mag wheel nut replacing and a spare tyre.





I like it because it's cheap, very lightweight (my family car aint much of a pack mule) and it comes with a winch. The next cheapest trailers started at about $3800 with licencing fees and went up to about 7k to get one made localy here in Townsville. Should be able to sell it for a similar ammount to what I paid once I don't need it anymore.

[boxhead]

Keep the traier, handy when you attend Nationals

[Mando]

Ryder, I never realized there was so much more steel in the Harrison chassis compared with the Classic Revival!

Regards.

[Tenrocca]

Originally Posted by Mando

Ryder, I never realized there was so much more steel in the Harrison chassis compared with the Classic Revival!

Regards.

Definitely 2 different approaches Id say - The CR seems to have fewer but large sections, the Harrison more but smaller. eg. The main rails on a CR are 4"x4".

[sambo]

I can feel the excitement from here Ryder, great to see another Harrison on the way.

Assuming you've purchased the Vintage Wheel Works wheels recently advertised here, if they're NQR it won't be spacers you need - the opposite. They're too wide and you don't want to machine them down - apparently not safe.

On my car the body is aligned OK at the rear but off centre about 15mm at the front, plus those wheels with -1 deg camber are still too wide, even if the body was centred properly. I'm using the opportunity to flare the guards and correct a few issues with the front guards, may even reshape the mudguards at the rear.

You should be able to dial up enough height at the front with coilovers and 400lb springs - enough to be able to drive it with those wheels anyway.

Keep the updates coming!

[Merv and Sharon]

Paul is right on this. I can say so from personal experience of VWW wheels. I am happy to send you the correct front/back space settings for the Harrison. You should not then need high spring rates for a Harrison.

Originally Posted by sambo

I can feel the excitement from here Ryder, great to see another Harrison on the way.

Assuming you've purchased the Vintage Wheel Works wheels recently advertised here, if they're NQR it won't be spacers you need - the opposite. They're too wide and you don't want to machine them down - apparently not safe.

On my car the body is aligned OK at the rear but off centre about 15mm at the front, plus those wheels with -1 deg camber are still too wide, even if the body was centred properly. I'm using the opportunity to flare the guards and correct a few issues with the front guards, may even reshape the mudguards at the rear.

You should be able to dial up enough height at the front with coilovers and 400lb springs - enough to be able to drive it with those wheels anyway.

Keep the updates coming!

[Ryder]

Interesting... I may need to do further research...

The ones I'm looking at buying are:
Front 17x8 with a 4-7/8" backspace
Rear 17x9.5 with a 5-1/4" backspace

What kinda spacing did you find worked for you Merv?

[Krait]

The 17 inch Halibrands from Vintage Wheels Inc for my Harrison were:

17 x 8.5 with a 5.00 backspace
17 x 10.5 with a 5.00 backspace (non Nissan rearend)

Cheers

[Merv and Sharon]

Ryder - I'll send my settings later today. Just need to find the original order. If you look at my photos you can see that the wheels sit in nicely.