i have been doing a bit of work on the trailer to be honest almost ready to put the floor in and start cladding the rest , as for the cobra i have put in the under floor insulation and have cut the hole in the firewall to mount the pedals and master cylinders.
i mucked it up a little i went by the measurements in the manual marked it all out was happy with the position and away i went and was really pleased with the result till it dawned on me i didnt have to make the hole as big as the book says as i dont have a clutch pedal or master cylinder going there.

i can fix it by folding up a bit of alloy and filling that section back in and will work out the measurements to send to pace so they can add a section in the build manual as to what size needs to be cut if the car is going to be auto. and maybe they can make the box where the cylinders go thru in a auto version with only 2 holes set up rather than supplying one with 3 holes that needs to be modified it's no biggie and everything ive done so far has gone pretty smoothly .

printing the manual off and putting the pages in plastic sleeves and into a couple of ring binders has helped a fair bit and so has pictures on the site here that other people have posted from there builds i usually save those pics and print them off as well and chuck them into the folder as well as they say a picture is worth a thousand words.
hoping to put a few hours into the car today finish of the pedals and start with the brake lines .

cheers dean

all good info especially with the auto side of things.

ive been trying to make my ls look more old school and keeping the drive by wire and i think ive nutted it out at last . there are two ways that i recon will work firstly using one 4 barrel inlet manifold and using the factory injectors and dbw throttle body. machine up a adapter to bolt to the inlet manifold and turn throttle body 90 degs and bolt too adapter and find/make aircleaner to fit .
you can get rocker covers for the LS that look like the old chev covers and relocate the coils ...

the other way is to use 2 dbw throttle bodies and a twin 4 barrel manifold and join the two by a common shaft and make air cleaner to suit . this way aprt from the inlet manifold everthing else is factory and retains the factory ecu important in my case as i need it to talk to the body control module for the auto trans .

cheers dean

Well, you know my thoughts on this Deano, love it.
There is quite a bit of info on using dual TBs on LS, using 2 servos, i.e 1 into 2 wiring adapter. etc. no common shaft needed.
Massively over carbed, but the throttle curve can be programmed easily to create a very drive-able result.

Other things to consider are MAP sensor and IAT sensor locations.
TPS is already covered off in the OE DBW servo.


"edit" just noted your MAP in the top pic.
"another edit" - youll need a vacuum point for canister purge and PCV circuit as well.

keep going

Dave

thanks dave
it has been bugging me for a while now i havent come across the adapter wiring loom yet but i will keep on looking but my gut feeling is just stay with one throttle body as the L98 runs quite a large one anyway . i need to find quite a low manifold as my engine has been raised up a bit in the chassis due to making the auto trans fit . will chat with the engineer and his thoughts on trying to get it thru like this not sure cause of aftermarket manifold unless i can find a gm one maybe plenty of time b4 i get to that stage but at least i know it can be done now so thats a great start ,

cheers dean

got to spend a couple of hours on the cobra last night so i put in the front sway bar kit was not too hard to fig out much of it was the same as the rear one hopefully get a few more hours on it tonight as well . just flat out during the day removing garden beds and stuff for when the pool goes in ..

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/data/500/photo16.JPG

Two throttle bodies are always better than one!

Dean - is that actually some stuff I can see there on your car that's not aluminium alloy?? :eek:

;)
Glen

im afraid so glen ..but on the bright side its not magnetic best quality plastic there is :-)

I actually meant those heavy steel bits on the roll bar :D
Best quality plastic goes without saying, as far as I'm concerned!

the roll bar is steel the black arms are alloy tho ....you need to go to spec savers then come around for a look lol

hi all
i seem to have struck a problem with my drive by wire throttle pedal . mine come out of a ve 2006 L98 Calais . my pedal looks completely different to one shown in the manual the pedal you press is one plastic piece and does not come apart like the one shown in the manual . the electric plug on mine faces the top and not the side .

i cant see a way to make it work with the supplied bell cranks as its a completely different pedal assembly to the book . in fact it looks like i could ditch the throttle pedal from the tilton unit and bolt this straight to the firewall just like it is in the commodore ..

cheers dean

first pic is my unit the second is as the build manual

Dean, my pedal was different too, a bit like yours but different again. I just had to adapt the position and lever system to suit.

I cut off the plastic pedal, and Pace supplied me an extra little triangular bracket (like the one that attaches to the triton accel pedal) that I bolts to the pedal stub. You could easily fabricate this though - it's just a small plate with a couple of holes in each end!

Muzza did a change to his that removed the bell crank setup and has a direct connection to his pedal with a single pushrod - I reckon you could do that with this pedal no probs. (that's like the second picture).

i had a play with it last night i reckon if i bolt the ve pedal to the firewall and trim the plastic pedal it will sit right behind the tilton pedal so when you press the tilton pedal it will push against the trimmed of ve pedal no need for any linkage at at all if that makes sense .. god knows how many gmh commodore dbw pedal set ups there are i know of 3 different ones now i want to use mine as it has the correct wiring for the rest of my loom ..cheers dean

That might work. Reckon you might as well remove the triton pedal altogther like you first suggested though if you're going to do that, and cut out the middle man!

Also, I wonder if you're engineer might have something to save about that pedal-on-pedal action?

Yes....that photo is actually from my car. Full props to Muz for coming up with the idea. I like it a lot better than the original bellcrank assembly. Because of the direct connection，there are fewer things than can potentially come loose.

do you know what model holden your pedal come from ?

Is it possible to use a direct cable to the butterfly? I don't really like drive by wire throttle. Sometimes throttle response is slow.
JD

Is it possible to use a direct cable to the butterfly? I don't really like drive by wire throttle. Sometimes throttle response is slow.
JD

I don't believe so. The ECU/PCM uses throttle position，the signals from which it receives electronically from the pedal. There are quite a few wires in the accelerator pedal loom as well so I'd proffer that it's fairly well entrenched.