Charging System Troubleshooting--Blown Ignition Light Fuse?

[DanEC]

Evan - you can remove the steering wheel, loosen the brackets holding the steering column to lower it as much as possible, wrap the column to protect the finish, and remove the screws holding the panel and lower it to where the column will support it. Just don't completely unscrew the column bracket - lower it as much as possible. There are so many cables, wires, etc connected to it that it won't go anywhere. Then as Patrick said you can access it from the top.

Wish I could help more on the root issue but Patricks on the case so he will get it figured out - I have confidence in him.

On the broken visor - don't sweat it - gives you a reason to order those from Finish Line with the gold Cobra label like the originals.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by DanEC

Wish I could help more on the root issue but Patricks on the case so he will get it figured out - I have confidence in him.

Wait 'til he sees my bill.

[ACHiPo]

Originally Posted by DanEC

Evan - you can remove the steering wheel, loosen the brackets holding the steering column to lower it as much as possible, wrap the column to protect the finish, and remove the screws holding the panel and lower it to where the column will support it. Just don't completely unscrew the column bracket - lower it as much as possible. There are so many cables, wires, etc connected to it that it won't go anywhere. Then as Patrick said you can access it from the top.

Wish I could help more on the root issue but Patricks on the case so he will get it figured out - I have confidence in him.

On the broken visor - don't sweat it - gives you a reason to order those from Finish Line with the gold Cobra label like the originals.

Dan,
I was able to drop the dash about 3/4" which actually made a huge difference in being able to fit my hand up behind the fuel gauge so I got the gauge put back together. I was not able to get the two dashboard end screws (behind the doors) started and gave up before I hurt the car or me. Will also check with ERA on tips to get the dash into just the right position to get those screws started.

Unfortunately the visor that broke was from Finish Line with the gold engraving. Replacement and a spare are ordered. That was easy enough.
Evan

[patrickt]

Here, this test will take less than five minutes, requires no wire cutting and, if successful, will make your car drivable (excluding wipers, gauges, and heater).

[ACHiPo]

Originally Posted by patrickt

Here, this test will take less than five minutes, requires no wire cutting and, if successful, will make your car drivable (excluding wipers, gauges, and heater).

I got a chance to try Patrick's diagnostic, and I got something, but not what I hoped for.

Removed the ignition light from the dash for access. Pulled the double green wire off the ground spade of the light socket. Ran a fused jumper between the accessory terminal on the ignition to the grounded lug of the ignition light.

Turned key to ON position. No light.
Started engine and light came on while cranking and extinguished when engine started.
Ammeter was slightly negative (~1A) with engine running. Turned on headlights and ammeter dropped to ~-12A. Revved engine, but ammeter didn't budge.

I'm sure I learned something, just not sure what. Maybe that I can definitely eliminate the gauges as a short path?

[patrickt]

That's progress. For the next set of tests, you will leave the double green wire disconnectied from the light for everything below.

1) Remove the G/R wire from the ignition light but leave your fused jumper wire running to the light. Turn the ignition switch ON but do not start the car. Touch a known good ground lead to the exposed pin of the light and observe that it illuminates. Then, using a VOM, test for either a) 12v+, b) 12v-, or c) neither one at all at the disconnected G/R wire. Report the findings.

2) Plug the G/R wire back on to the ignition light. With the ignition ON, and the car not running, the light should be "ON" but you report that it is not. Try running a known good ground wire to the alternator and voltage regulator and touch different spots on both those components just to see if you can get the ignition light to illuminate. For instance, touching a known good ground wire to the VR case and making the light come on each time you did that would be a really nice sign. Report back.

3) Insert a fuse in to Fuse #3 and turn the key ON, but do not start the car. See if your gauges, heater, and wipers work or if you blow the fuse doing that. Report back.

We are making progress.

[ACHiPo]

Originally Posted by patrickt

That's progress. For the next set of tests, you will leave the double green wire disconnectied from the light for everything below.

1) Remove the G/R wire from the ignition light but leave your fused jumper wire running to the light. Turn the ignition switch ON but do not start the car. Touch a known good ground lead to the exposed pin of the light and observe that it illuminates. Then, using a VOM, test for either a) 12v+, b) 12v-, or c) neither one at all at the disconnected G/R wire. Report the findings.

2) Plug the G/R wire back on to the ignition light. With the ignition ON, and the car not running, the light should be "ON" but you report that it is not. Try running a known good ground wire to the alternator and voltage regulator and touch different spots on both those components just to see if you can get the ignition light to illuminate. For instance, touching a known good ground wire to the VR case and making the light come on each time you did that would be a really nice sign. Report back.

3) Insert a fuse in to Fuse #3 and turn the key ON, but do not start the car. See if your gauges, heater, and wipers work or if you blow the fuse doing that. Report back.

We are making progress.

First test did not show any voltage or illumination. I ran a ground wire from the engine block to the center pin of the ignition bulb with the ignition "ON" and no illumination. Checked with a DVM and sure enough no voltage across the connections.

Running second test now...

[patrickt]

Can you get that ignition light to illuminate by just running 12v+ to one pin and 12v- to the other pin? All we're doing here is just testing the light bulb to see if it will come on.

[ACHiPo]

The resistance across the ignition light terminals is 7.5 Ohms. It lights when battery power is applied.

Need to head to work, but will check back later today.