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Kirkham Motorsports

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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 02-26-2018, 12:09 PM
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Fully understand the side-pipe heat issue. I believe I can exit the sheet metal cover front face and route inboard under the frame. This should offer protection from the pipes. I also have protective heat shield wrap if necessary. Patrick's hard lines probable route along the frame. My fix is temporary and hard lines are in the future.
In response to Cobra29, I found connecting the hoses to the reservoir in the engine bay above the foot box will give better clamp access. I replaced the hoses when I replaced the masters but again that was just to get back on the road. The reservoir had to be raised further from the top of the foot box to attach the clamps. That positioned the reservoir attachment holes out of alignment with the bracket. You could enlarge the foot box holes to clear the clamps and push them back into the cockpit.
The bottom line for me is get them out of the cockpit.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 02-26-2018, 12:21 PM
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Patrick, did you install the hard line configuration? If so, does that mean you never did the BMW " all in one " reservoir installation. Hard lines are the best solution. There are master cylinders that do not require the hose barb insert on the upper body. They would allow all hard lines in the configuration. My hose to barb attachment is contacting the floor. No clearance.
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Old 02-26-2018, 01:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by csx4017 View Post
Patrick, did you install the hard line configuration? If so, does that mean you never did the BMW " all in one " reservoir installation.
Yes, I never went with the BMW reservoir, I've had the old style Girling reservoirs that came off the old Austin Healey cars. They're mounted over on the driver side fender well, as you can see in the first pic below. The second and third pics show the hard line configuration both exiting and entering the brake box area. For the most part, they are pretty well insulated by the frame. Now, I will tell you that the Girling reservoirs, while looking cool, are a PITA to get to where they don't leak and don't slosh. On the other hand, I can't imagine having those black rubber lines running up behind the pedals inside the foot box.





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Old 02-26-2018, 02:39 PM
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I think I need to get some 1/4 tubing and come close to your configuration. It appears you routed the hard lines outboard of the pedal bell-crank and upper area of the sheet metal box. Clearance notch in the box ? Then you routed along the frame outboard surface before bending to vertical up to the reservoirs. I am thinking about staying outboard frame surface LOW and as far away from the pipes as possible before trying to follow the wheel well panel and once clear of the frame up to the reservoirs ?? I have not bent tubing since my Navy days on F8 Crusaders. Mostly double flare for AN fittings.
My alternate was to mount -4 AN to barb on the box and go hose to the masters and braided flex lines to the reservoir ?
Correct, the tin can Girlings were on my CSX4000.........PITA rust and leak.

Thanks Patrick

Last edited by csx4017; 02-26-2018 at 02:41 PM..
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Old 02-26-2018, 03:32 PM
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Here's a photo of the brake/clutch line routing in the engine bays of newer cars, if it is of any help.

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Old 02-26-2018, 03:55 PM
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Thanks Kevin, That looks very good. I may try to stay on the outer surface of the frame before I bend up to the reservoir. The clutch tube would route on top like your photo. Did this configuration come from ERA or did you bend the tubes? If they are available pre-bent from ERA maybe they have them for sale ? That would insure perfect fit. Are they still using the Tiltons that would require a short segment of hose?
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Old 02-26-2018, 05:40 PM
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When I say the Girling reservoirs are a PITA, I mean it. It took me a couple or three or more years before a combination of Seal-All, Dorman rubber stoppers under the lid, and then custom cut top of the can "gaskets" (which you can see in my photo above and that start to look really nice after they sop up the brake fluid for a season or two) are actually made of orange Sham-Wow. Yep, the kids gave me a box of Sham-Wow for Christmas one year and that stuff works and looks great after it's been on the cans for a while. But, if I had to replace those reservoirs now, I'd use the new Moss Motors can here: https://mossmotors.com/tank-assembly-single-supply They look like they would hold up much better. Oh, and I always use the BLUE Ate SuperBlue Brake Fluid. You can't buy it in the states anymore, you have to order it from overseas. It makes identifying brake/clutch fluid puddles quick and easy.
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Old 02-26-2018, 05:58 PM
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I thought the orange I see was rust not " Sham- Wow " . I had Kirkham billet reservoirs on the CSX.....not original but no leaks or corrosion. Nice to see the hard line upgrade on newer ERA's.
Always good to see your work.
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Old 02-27-2018, 08:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by csx4017 View Post
Thanks Kevin, That looks very good. I may try to stay on the outer surface of the frame before I bend up to the reservoir. The clutch tube would route on top like your photo. Did this configuration come from ERA or did you bend the tubes? If they are available pre-bent from ERA maybe they have them for sale ? That would insure perfect fit. Are they still using the Tiltons that would require a short segment of hose?
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This configuration is as received from ERA. They may very well have a jig for pre-bending their brake lines - I don't know but worth a call to them. Below are a couple of photos of the Tiltons, also supplied by ERA. As for the short hose, there is a 2" rubber hose connecting to the Tilton. Below are a couple of photos.



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Old 02-27-2018, 09:46 AM
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I appreciate the photos. Will give ERA a call.
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Old 02-27-2018, 09:59 AM
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Note that clutch fork has not been trimmed. Why would you have to trim the clutch fork you might ask? Because: So, Should I Replace This Part or Not?
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Old 02-27-2018, 10:27 AM
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Well, the clutch fork was provided by ERA and worked perfectly - no clearance problem.
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Old 02-27-2018, 10:37 AM
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Well, the clutch fork was provided by ERA and worked perfectly - no clearance problem.
It depends on the master cylinder that you have down there. They changed page 34 of the manual after my trimming thread. Here's a rip from that page of the manual. That fork clearance is pretty darn tight.

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Old 02-27-2018, 11:45 AM
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It depends on the master cylinder that you have down there. They changed page 34 of the manual after my trimming thread. Here's a rip from that page of the manual. That fork clearance is pretty darn tight.

I wondered why mine didn't need trimming. Different master huh?
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Old 02-27-2018, 11:50 AM
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I wondered why mine didn't need trimming. Different master huh?
Well, I have the extra big and fat Tilton MC, the funky spacer between the TKO and the Lakewood BH, and the old style fork made back in Henry Ford's time. I think that's the magic combination that will get your fork to start kissing your reservoir....
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Old 02-27-2018, 12:20 PM
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Mine is trimmed - you just couldn't see it in that photo at that angle. Here's a photo before I installed the engine.

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Old 02-27-2018, 12:29 PM
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Mine is trimmed - you just couldn't see it in that photo at that angle. Here's a photo before I installed the engine.
But that appears to be the wrong corner? Compare it to mine.

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Old 02-27-2018, 01:04 PM
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But that appears to be the wrong corner? Compare it to mine.

Yeah, I thought it was opposite of the diagram you posted so I just crawled under the car to see what the deal is and took the photo below. As you can see, in my case the fork would hit the foot box without the corner trimmed, not the master cylinder. Guess they've made a number of changes over the years.

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Old 02-27-2018, 01:06 PM
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Yep, nothing beats crawling under the car and eyeballing it.
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Old 03-01-2018, 11:52 AM
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I talked to John at ERA and this is the photo of their three hard lines. They are available for sale. The two upper lines appear to have a configuration I can work with. I am having difficulty understanding how the lower line configuration would route. Looks extremely long with many bends?



Last edited by csx4017; 03-01-2018 at 11:54 AM..
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