06-12-2010, 05:23 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 4,078
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Not Ranked
I've heard bad things about the Fluidamper (the brand not the type). I can't substantiate what I heard but am very glad I got the Innovators piece. It's been on the motor for 12 seasons-plus it's rebuildable by Art. The Fluidamper is sealed so it's not.
Price depends on steel or aluminum, fluid or solid and where manufactured as well as the precision of machining. ATI's are very good-I've seen them run on dynos to 8000+.
About removal/install; you don't have room to pry (barbaric) in the car anyway so don't skimp-buy or borrow the tools. I've seen guys hammer them on (also barbaric) but the tools actually make it easier in the car. I did it on my back. Good new is you can use your impact wrench to spin the bolt off. Going on you gotta put it in gear (rear tires on ground) because they all want well over 100 lbft of torque.
Interference fit is vital-that's why you need the install tool. You can't just push these on. Do this; take your dial caliper (that reads to .0000") and measure the crank snout-take readings in 4 places around the nose. In my case, I called Art, told him my numbers and he honed one to my proper press fit. Every manufacturer wants a different number so if you buy an ATI for instance, measure the damper ID and their installation sheet will tell you the press they want. Compare to your crank's OD and do the math. If it's too tight, go to a local machinist and get it honed. Too loose and send it back for another.
Get an ARP bolt-don't reuse old one-torque to damper's spec. Don't lose the woodruff key!
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Chas.
Last edited by ERA Chas; 06-12-2010 at 05:26 PM..
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