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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 06-22-2009, 09:52 AM
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Nah, I don't mind at all. The specs are 255/262 at .050 with .383 lobe lift and a 112 lobe separation. It will be installed at 4 degrees advanced at 108. This cam should give .674 lift on both the intake and the exhaust before lash with 1.76 rockers.
As far as springs, I don't know! I bought the Stage II heads from Keith, and he installed the proper matching springs on the heads with titanium retainers. I never did ask him for the spring specs. The cam, as you can see, is big enough to make lots of power, yet small enough to not be too difficult. Should be fun. The rest of the valve train and intake is a set of Harland Sharp roller rockers and stands, and a port matched Performer RPM with all the markings and logos ground off and bead blasted for a more original look, with a Quick Fuel 950 carb, all original gold color, with LeMans bowls. Should run good and look good too. If I can only get a darned block now......
Thanks for the info. Are you looking to get a new Al or iron block? I'm pretty happy with the Genesis iron block but a lot of people like the Pond and Shelby blocks. I just like iron blocks.

I've been running solid rollers on my street car for awhile now. I ran 3 different ones in my 428 and have a Lunati roller very similar to your cam in my new motor. 256*/264*, .3965 lobe lift, 110* LSA. I think it's just right for my car. I had a 264*/270*, 108* LSA roller in my 428 and it was little bit radical for driving around.

I think the pin oiling feature in a lot of the new solid roller lifters is helpful. The Comp lifters have that feature now. All the Cranes had it and it's optional on the Crowers. I used to run the Crane Ultra Pro lifters before but am running the Crowers with pin oiling now.

The hydraulic roller cams for the FE still require a bronze gear. Crane had a special steel gear for use with steel roller cams but Crane is no longer there...
I use a bronze gear and have had no problems with it. I've got several thousand miles on it and it has a bit of wear but is still fine. You just have to check it every so often. Just make sure the gear is located correctly on the distributor shaft so it doesn't bind on the thrust surface of the block.
I have one of those steel Crane gears but haven't used it.
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