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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 06-04-2007, 02:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael4yah
Fastraxsg. Take a look at the underside of any jap scrap tin can car. I'll venture a guess that if you weighed the frame material in this cobra it would equal 3 of those aformenttioned jap scrap tin can cars. Dont forget your physics 101 Newtonian Law that it takes mass to dissipate energy!
Michael
Not much mass between the door and the driver. The craftsmanship in the car is outstanding but don't forget that a Cobra is a small car. This car is still going to be lighter than a Jap compact car.
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Old 06-04-2007, 04:15 PM
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Naumoff. Glad you chimed in. Huge coincidence!! I was just looking at your photo gallery and was wondering, did they ever find out what the fastback Falcon was all about?

Say are you in touch with Lee Holman? Ive exchanged emails with him a couple of times on parts he had on ebay . Ive been trying to find a high rise weber manifold and havnt had any luck as yet. If you are in contact with Lee please ask him if he has one and if he would sell it . If not then maybe he'd rent it so I can make a copy. Id even settle for some blueprints and engineering. Thanks.

Cobras are small, no doubt there, I own 2 of them and Im constantly thinking of how to make em safer. About a year ago I turned down a chance to get an NOS Cobra fuel tank for 400.00 because I decided on a fuel safe. But I have to admit the purist in me usually stops any real attempts at change especially on one of my cars the Hi Tech. Its the last of 9 Alum bodied Hi Tech Cobras that were ever built . The other is a custom build Contemporary chassis with a BBC. M22. Jag RE. Both are a work in progress.

Mass isnt exactly the same thing as size. Density is probably a better way of putting it. Stamped Sheetmetal I beams are nothing compared to tubular steel given the right design. For instance a few years ago in Texas a 400 lb wild pig completely destroyed a new 5000 lb. Ford 150 pick up and put three people in the hospital!! It was a friend whos daughter needed multiple operations to fix her legs. You are right about Cobras being vulnerable in the door/ side area but all he needs to do is use Butlers design on the door beam and this thing is a tank. About the only thing that helps Cobra owners in a Tbone situation is the floor bracing and/or the fact that the door area is so close to the cowl hoop and the rear end framing. As long as the opposing car's bumper isnt high like a pick up or a 57 Chevy that was turned into a straight axle gasser he'l have a chance at survival. This is one reason I woudnt want to drop the floor without some additonal support, It just puts it that much lower than the opposing bumper. One thing for sure, in this build with a front end collision the trans wont be going anywhere important!!
Michael
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Last edited by Michael4yah; 06-04-2007 at 04:31 PM..
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Old 06-04-2007, 04:31 PM
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Michael,

I have not searched for any information about the Falcon Fastback.
Someone must have a High rise Weber or better yet a fuel injection intake manifold for a high riser. Have you tried searching for a fuel injection manifold?

A keen eye and don't drive in rush hour or drive like an idiot on the streets helps with safety a little bit.
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Old 06-04-2007, 08:02 PM
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Absolutely beautiful craftsmanship - by all indications, this is going to be one incredible Cobra! Please keep posting updates!!
As far as the beef in the door frames is concerned, the dividends will be paid mostly in door/body structural integrity and rigidity - no sagging doors and less chance of rattles. Given the dimensions and design constraints of an accurate appearing Cobra, there's not much you can do to have any meaningful side impact protection unless you plan on being broadsided by a 90lb environmentalist on a Segway.
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Old 06-04-2007, 08:53 PM
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Default As opinions turn (or What a country)

Oh I love it when people get to express their opinions. Yes crash intrusion sucks but I was going more for the latter and the solid door theory. Oh and yes I will be adding two anti intrusion pins one on the bottom and one behind the hinge to keep the door in place. You will just have to keep watching to see whats next.

Joey, there may be a book in the future but not in time for your build, I will have to tutor you personally. Any way I'm in need of more popcorn so keep guessing what I will do next. Patrick
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Old 06-05-2007, 04:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fasterpatrick
Oh I love it when people get to express their opinions. Yes crash intrusion sucks but I was going more for the latter and the solid door theory. Oh and yes I will be adding two anti intrusion pins one on the bottom and one behind the hinge to keep the door in place. You will just have to keep watching to see whats next.

Joey, there may be a book in the future but not in time for your build, I will have to tutor you personally. Any way I'm in need of more popcorn so keep guessing what I will do next.:LOL: Patrick
Well hurry up, The suspense is killing me!
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Old 06-05-2007, 01:11 PM
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When the guy on the Segway T-Bones you, watch out for the flying tofu and bean sprout sandwich.
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Old 06-10-2007, 02:32 PM
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Default Well Well Well

I'm stoking the fire here, if you haven't noticed I love people who stand up for themselves. So here is more wood to the fire. I've added the afore mentioned door pins, and they do not bind HA.




There you go now I'm going to get a cold beverage and wait and see what everyone thinks now. I think that will help keep the door out of my lap. Patrick
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Old 06-10-2007, 02:57 PM
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good idea but it looks like a lign up nightmare in the future...after the door sags a bit...or i could be wrong i mean, i'm not the one that works for NASA.
it will keep the door out of your lap though...

going to get some popcorn...
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Old 06-10-2007, 09:29 PM
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Looks like a winner but are any leg parts going to drag on the bottom pin fixture when you slide into the car?
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Old 06-10-2007, 10:16 PM
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Ken, pins are a mere 3/4" tall and well rounded, metal tab is under sill level so they will barely stick up enough to catch. Yes I didn't want to catch my leg on them so I had to work with some small parts,did most of the fitting with the shell on took it off to tack them in.
Joey, What door sag you think my doors will sag. I left room to adjust the pins, put everything toghether with tight tolerences and can loosen them up later. Hey I'm not looking foward to 100 plus degree temps down there I'm hangin out Vegas way Thur. through Sun. this week. So you think you could turn on the airconditioner so I don't melt.
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Old 06-15-2007, 07:22 AM
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LOL, when I think of door sag, I have flashbacks to the 70's/early 80's GM two door cars. You know, the door is a mile long, weighs two tons, and requires jato assist in order to get it shut after the sag set's in!
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Old 07-16-2007, 04:56 AM
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Wink sagging doors....

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay Little
LOL, when I think of door sag, I have flashbacks to the 70's/early 80's GM two door cars. You know, the door is a mile long, weighs two tons, and requires jato assist in order to get it shut after the sag set's in!
Quite true!!...but I found on those GM cars that once the "sag" set in, they
generally did not sag much more and once you reshimmed the doors back into
proper alignment, they didn't give much trouble. The only problem was that
reshimming the doors to get proper closure without jato assist would often
mess up the gaps so you would have good closure but gaps weren't right and
treating uneven door gaps can be very time consuming!

....Fred
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Old 07-16-2007, 09:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ffindling
Quite true!!...but I found on those GM cars that once the "sag" set in, they
generally did not sag much more and once you reshimmed the doors back into
proper alignment, they didn't give much trouble. The only problem was that
reshimming the doors to get proper closure without jato assist would often
mess up the gaps so you would have good closure but gaps weren't right and
treating uneven door gaps can be very time consuming!

....Fred
Everyone here in my neck of the woods is too dang lazy to re-shim their doors!
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Old 07-15-2007, 07:28 PM
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Default Junk in the trunk

Well I've had problems with my build but this was like herding cats. standard swing hinges just didn't put the lid in a good spot given the location of the roll bar. So I came up with these I spent way to much time doing this.

Now they will need some final tuning but they should give me the desired effect.



So with that said I move on to the Hood ;Patrick

Last edited by fasterpatrick; 12-03-2007 at 09:00 PM..
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Old 07-25-2007, 01:12 PM
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Cool Hangin in the hood

Well cross hood hinges and latch off the list. This wasn't as difficult as the trunk as I found some usable (with modifications of course) hinges at the junkyard. and a tailgate latch from a wagon. I am still proud to say that I have not needed to use a GM piece in my build. Just need to make a Popper system to allow me to grab the hood to open it, after hitting the latch release.




Now I have three things left to do and the mock up will be complete, E-brake handle, brake and clutch reservoirs, and windshield. Patrick

Last edited by fasterpatrick; 12-03-2007 at 09:03 PM..
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Old 07-26-2007, 06:41 AM
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NICE!! I'm guessing that the leading edge of the hood raises up above the body lip before coming to rest on top of it?

Quote:
Originally Posted by fasterpatrick
Now I have three things left to do and the mock up will be complete, E-brake handle, brake and clutch reservoirs, and windshield. Patrick
You'll have that done by the end of next week! Right?
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Old 07-26-2007, 10:25 AM
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Excellent work, Patrick! I would like to ask a couple of builder questions, though. I read thru the posts and saw you were using 1025 dom @ .095 with 1" for the birdcage, but what diameter did you use on the control arms? Also, what brand of megabuck tubing bender did you buy, and what feedback would you give on it? Thanks.
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Old 07-26-2007, 08:38 PM
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Well, The tube for the control arms is the same 1025 dom but 1.25" dia with machined weld in threaded inserts for the hiems and collars for the ball joints.

The tube bender is EZ-bend 90 degree tubing bender from midamerican equipment and supplies.

The whole works with dies set me back about $800. works real good but takes a little practice so budget in some extra stock. As for the swoopy bends I built my own roll type bender.

Now you know. Happy bending; Patrick
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Old 08-02-2007, 05:05 PM
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kristallmighty...even your proprod is like..1/2" roundstock..
tornado proof.

looking good tho..hows the manual coming along?
another thing..I'm having serious concerns over that fuzzy body..kinda see through. does it flex much?
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