Some assembly progress pics

[David Hodgson]

I wouldn't think there is an issue of strength in the lower dog bone, but the weaker point being the inner pivot bracket and bolts. I'm not sure how much strength the original trailing arm actually contributes, as the original Jag forward mount is a large and very compliant rubber bush. I rekon it's only there to stop you loosing the the dog bone and your wheel when it gets ripped off by a QLD pot hole. A bit like a leg rope
I have a G-Force and it is like Slowy's - it essentially turns the dog bone into a wishbone, putting it in compression under acceleration, but as you can see on Zden's chassis it is not possible to do this as a chassis member is obsucting it.
The single shock set up on the red chassis is mounted forward of the arm, and i have been considering going that way with mine.
I really like the adjustable shock mounts on the RCM. I mighty try and retrofit to mine. My spring rates are just right but they are set at the lowest height on the spring seats and it is still to high in the rear.

[Rebel1]

Originally Posted by David Hodgson

I wouldn't think there is an issue of strength in the lower dog bone, but the weaker point being the inner pivot bracket and bolts.

I agree on this point David.
That is why it is highly recommended to make up a plate to tie the left and right brackets together.

I'm not talking about a tie plate between the two shafts as vizable in Liams pics but a full plate under the diff tieing those two brackets together.

I recently supplied a mate with a spare inner pivot bracket as he bent his when he had an "off" and hit the armco.

What was surprising was that even tho he had used locktite, and the bolts were safety wired when he originally installed his diff , his bolts were all loose after the off.

His original installation used the tie plate between the pivot shafts like Liams but not a plate tieing the brackets together.

He has now made a full tie plate

[Zedn]

Originally Posted by Rebel1

I agree on this point David.
That is why it is highly recommended to make up a plate to tie the left and right brackets together.

I'm not talking about a tie plate between the two shafts as vizable in Liams pics but a full plate under the diff tieing those two brackets together.

I recently supplied a mate with a spare inner pivot bracket as he bent his when he had an "off" and hit the armco.

What was surprising was that even tho he had used locktite, and the bolts were safety wired when he originally installed his diff , his bolts were all loose after the off.

His original installation used the tie plate between the pivot shafts like Liams but not a plate tieing the brackets together.

He has now made a full tie plate

I havnt yet installed it, but there is a plate to go on the underside also. I am waiting to get the allignment checked before drilling the holes and bolting it on. The ends of the fulcrum shafts on the RCM also bolt through a thick plate in the chassis so there is no way it could come apart.

[David Hodgson]

Les/Zden, I think I recall threaded holes on the underside of the inner brackets, is this correct? I wonder if they were used in the original cradle.

One of the NSW guy's who I don't see anymore, Dale Benge, mounted his retaining the Jag craddle in a blown 302 Arntz.

[Zedn]

Originally Posted by David Hodgson

Les/Zden, I think I recall threaded holes on the underside of the inner brackets, is this correct? I wonder if they were used in the original cradle.

One of the NSW guy's who I don't see anymore, Dale Benge, mounted his retaining the Jag craddle in a blown 302 Arntz.

Correct, 5/16 unf holes two at each end (8 in total).