Ya, I gave Patty the wrong measurements, gave you the right ones! All better now. No Sat. delivery here but should have them for Mondays work! Can you believe we're getting down to battery cables!?
DV

Progress DV, progress....

Hopefully its all downhill from here. Now if the roll bar situation would just come to a close, I think we'd see the light at the end of the tunnel.

Let me know if you need anything else. I got a few odds and ends coming from Summit and I have a box of trim pieces sitting here from Finishline.

Sat: Frame is halfway back to being boxed in-motor went in one more time, (and back out- see I told you I use that lift a lot! :) ) everything now fits and lines up. I did a liltle trick to the kickdown lever so it wouldn't use as much room. everything looks good. Hope to drop the motor in yet today. Motor mount and final asembly of the installation tomorrow, Dash is totally assembeled including the glove box.
DV

Thanks for the update DV!!!

You said you had a guy that could re-powder coat the engine frame mounts, right?

so can you tell me your trick to install the kickdown lever please

Kawika sure! First things first, if you ar NOT using a "computer" electronic box that fits on the right side of the C-6 then it will fit with some minor mods. Howevere if you are using an electronics box to show what gear you are in you are going to have to notch both sides of the frame to allow them to fit. If you're only concerned with the kick down lever, once you have the motor and trans. mounted-loosely- push the tranny to the right slightly. Your U-joints will more than make up for the 1' angle or better. Now remove the kickdown lever and look at the back/tranny side of the little ball fitting. You will see where it has been stamped in place. Install the entire bracket in a vice with the stamped part up, grind this off as carfeully as you can without actually getting into the lever arm. Once you are satisfied it is ground down enough flip the lever over, the ball fitting for the linkage has like a 3/8's nut on the bottom. use this nut to grab it tight with a small pair of vice grips or even a wrench. Swivel it back and forth until if finally comes loose. Pull or punch it out. Now take the bracket out of the vice, flip it over and re-insert the ball fitting then weld it in from the back side.

Now the ball fitting will be facing the transmission when re-assembeled and not poiniting out or hitting the frame. Just re-run the kick down cable to the ball socket which leaves plenty of room for it to work without binding.

Make sense? If not don't hesitate to let me know!

And cpteddie, this ones for you;
http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...ies_Dash_B.JPG

DV

Had no idea how many guys were interested in the C-6 modification. Here's a before:
http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...ior_to_mod.JPG

Here's after modification. Might make anote if you have some old Carb parts, Holley, Carter etc., most of them came with this ball type arem which is "nutted" on to the linkage. You could take one of these install it in the holw left when removing the OEM arm and bolt it on if you don't want to weld it!

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...r_reversed.JPG

Don't let the lack of proportioning shown in the photo's fool you, plenty of room for the kick down cable when it's reversed.

DV

Dash looks sweet DV!!!

Thanks for the pics.... :3DSMILE:

In the picture of the dash...What are those two brakets on top of the trans tunnel? Do they help support the dash or add rigid support to the cowl? Hard see by the pic but maybe it's a heater box or something too obvious.

John

John,
When I get to final assembley the dash does not need any more supporting. You're right, those brackets are for the heater box. If you'd like, when I remove the dash I can take a photo of the heater?
DV

cpteddie,
Made-4-you showed up very first thign this morning. Already drilled and tapped the frame for the battery cables so just about perfect timing. Ground strap was put on the motor, will box in the frame then weld up the second motor mount so it will all go back together. Soon as I get it done I'll run the mounts, tranny support up to John (Same as the electrical guy) and get them re-powder coated. Hopefully by tomorrow it, (the frame) will be totally done then just the alignment for the rear end!
DV

Thanks for the update, DV!!!

Any change of thought with regards to the pipe bender? :)

Ed,
Apparently I was under a wrong interprataion of how bad these things were needed. I thought I was going to do a good thing, but this Monday morning 138 looks at the post and only one investor doesn't seem like the majority of the guys need bars. I talked to ERIC THIS MORNING AND HE IS GOING TO CALL ME OR E-MAIL ME TONIGHT ON YOUR SUPOSED FINISH DATE.
DV

Ok DV, no worries.

Whatever works out best in the end. I just do not want things to come to a dead stop over the roll bar. You and I have had our fare share of those things already... lower control arms, upper control arm bushings and the list goes on %/

Ed

I have 1 3/4 dies for roll bar tubing if you can't get/do the 2 inch

Jerry

Thanks for the offer Jerry.

The problems is not so much getting access to a bender, but having an original CRII bar to use as a template. Wetdog has borrowed tcrists bar off his CRII and has a place that will duplicate it in 2" stock. Its just been taking awhile. DV has made some really great progress on my car, but the lack of a roll bar is the only thing holding up putting final paint and finish to the body.

I have my fingers crossed that we'll see a bar from wetdog shortly :)

If you have a bar off a car---lay it on a piece of pegboard and draw a pattern (just in case)

DV, I was just curious as to what I was seeing. I have no interest in a heater box, no need for a picture. Thanks anyway. I have been trying to keep up with this thread...who knows I might learn something, actually I just did. Thanks!

John

Hey DV,

I'm still planning on coming over on Sunday. Anything you need me to get or bring with me?

Stay tuned..........thinking.....
DV