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I mean you would need to remove the plate and all of the ram tubes to remove one carburetor if you had say a bad needle and seat, is that correct?
Gary |
Bill - I'm assuming it's an airbox similar in concept to those fitted on the original Daytonas, yes?
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https://thumbs2.imgbox.com/bd/df/MsaB7ePm_t.jpeg Today I finished plotting all the dimensions for the base plate on some heavy duty poster board material. All dims are 1:1 scale https://thumbs2.imgbox.com/49/1a/Z4saY4It_t.jpeg Next up will be to transfer them to a sheet of .060 6061 aluminum |
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Seems a lot of work to me, only to make it harder to work on down the track. Mechanics view here, and I have had many Weber setups. Gary |
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Bill, just out of personal interest, I found this picture of the "air box" on COB 6008 in its earlier days....
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Access panel down the middle for easier access to carb linkages. Gary |
Received my new carbide tip 2.125 hole cutter for the air horns. Cuts like a hot knife through butter. Expensive but so much better than the **** at Home Depot or Lowes
https://thumbs2.imgbox.com/85/6f/5zppO7ek_t.jpeg https://thumbs2.imgbox.com/21/0e/9yMl9URt_t.jpeg |
Carbide tipped cutters really are good. I've been using a 1" carbide tipped cutter for cutting holes in 1.2mm SS sheet.
A job that I thought would be hard work and take a long time was just so easy to produce nice clean, accurate holes.....and that was using a hand held drill ;) Cheers, Glen |
Nearly finished with base plate. Air horns and fuel inlet reliefs turned out great. Still need to cut the access openings for the needles and jets.
https://thumbs2.imgbox.com/51/8b/nYxloS1M_t.jpeg |
Looking nice Bill. As always, nice wrk.
Jim |
Cut my first access hole to access the needles and jets. What a bear. But got one done. Took one hour. Three to go. Ugh! Time for a beer
https://thumbs2.imgbox.com/08/3d/4QvF4bpK_t.jpeg https://thumbs2.imgbox.com/48/3e/P16qJhwG_t.jpeg |
Cut the second access opening. Then Decided to clean up one side to see how,it will look. Really difficult to sand with all the holes. Tears up the paper. Maybe use full sheets and a piece of wood. Another issue is the air horn retaining pieces. The air horns sit higher because of the aluminum base causing the retaining clip to be at an awkward angle. Will experiment with washers as a fix
https://thumbs2.imgbox.com/d9/de/XTTjhV2v_t.jpeg |
Looks nice!
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Seems I have run into a insurmountable problem. Door hinges. Using Bruce’s body and the FFR frame and door hinges, the doors only open part way. The leading edge of the doors hit the body. I thought about lengthening the arms on the hinges but that throws the mounting points off where the hinge mounts to the door. Nothing lines up.
https://thumbs2.imgbox.com/09/46/5kVxs86b_t.jpeg I will use the cut up hinge on the right that mounts to the door, and the frame mount on the left, and design/build my own swing arms. https://thumbs2.imgbox.com/ee/c1/BKfQnSXQ_t.jpeg |
Door taped in place. Hinge brackets attached. Tomorrow will begin laying out the swing arms
https://thumbs2.imgbox.com/c8/ec/6DfbFvwB_t.jpeg |
Hi Bill,
Have you thought about moving the hinge mounting point back from its current position on the cowl, towards the rear of the car? I believe this helped with the clearance issues I was having with my doors. I am sure you will figure it out. You have run into more than a few challenges on this build and you have always persevered!! |
Moving the hinge back would be cumbersome and look funny. Going with my method allows me more leeway with alignment and fitment.
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Bill, what's the hole in the door for? A roundel light?
Cheers, Glen |
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Which light will you be using?
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