Commissioning a Turn Key ERA 427 Cobra

[Flygirl]

Thanks for the thoughts about the roll bar. I'm on a tight budget so I don't think I'd be able to afford to have roll bar fabricated, but I like the idea about having the mounts installed, just in case. I'll just have to see how the cost adds up; to be honest, I'm still saving my nickels and saving my dimes, very early in the process.

Definitely would go sans roll bar, that was one of the first decisions I made. Really like the clean look of the street version.

Originally Posted by RodKnock

If someone would make an affordable Sunburst, those would sure look nice on your street build. Last thread I saw about the Sunbursts, they were about $800/wheel.

Yeh, you're right about the Sunbursts. I didn't like them initially, but the more I ponder them, the more I do. For some reason I was under the impression that they weren't as wide as the Halibrand replicas, especially the rears. I suppose that the rear suspension could be altered to increase the track a bit and fill the rear quarters. I also have come across some pics of narrow bodied (in the rear) 427s, but that's not how the ERA comes standard and there's no way I can afford to be modifying the body, that's for sure. A car with the narrower rear quarters and Sunbursts would be primo, in my opinion. But for this example I'll definitely have to make budgetary concessions. Just not quite sure where, yet, or how many.

[DanEC]

Originally Posted by Flygirl

A car with the narrower rear quarters and Sunbursts would be primo, in my opinion. But for this example I'll definitely have to make budgetary concessions. Just not quite sure where, yet, or how many.

That is my ideal car too but it would take major wheel flair, body work on the ERA and while I can do fiberglass work - I just didn't want to get into it that deep. So, I went with the 7-1/2 and 9-1/2 inch Halibrand replica wheels and left the body alone. You can find 428Street's profile and see some pictures with the ERA body and the Sunburst wheels in the rear. If I'm not mistaken, I believe KGS365 (the green street roadster on the ERA website) has the widened rear track with Sunburst wheels for comparison.

[strictlypersonl]

The Sunburst wheels are all the same: 7.5" wide. When we use them on the rear, we use longer control arms to increase the flange-to-flange distance by about 3". I'm not sure whether that's possible with the ERA rear. I'd have to check whether there's any new interference.

[Flygirl]

Originally Posted by strictlypersonl

The Sunburst wheels are all the same: 7.5" wide. When we use them on the rear, we use longer control arms to increase the flange-to-flange distance by about 3". I'm not sure whether that's possible with the ERA rear. I'd have to check whether there's any new interference.

Thanks for the info. The setup would be the Salisbury/Jag rear end, not the ERA version with the outboard discs. I'd imagine that'd work better with the under car exhaust, too, which is also my preference.

[cscobra]

Originally Posted by Flygirl

Thanks for the info. The setup would be the Salisbury/Jag rear end, not the ERA version with the outboard discs. I'd imagine that'd work better with the under car exhaust, too, which is also my preference.

You are correct - the undercar exhaust does require the Jag rear end assembly.

[kgs365]

I was just there on Monday...and I think i saw a 427 on the lift with the outboard brakes that is having an undercar exhaust fitted

Originally Posted by cscobra

You are correct - the undercar exhaust does require the Jag rear end assembly.

[ERA Chas]

Enjoy your brand-new ERA.

[Flygirl]

Originally Posted by ERA Chas

Enjoy your brand-new ERA.

Thank you.

I've always had commitment issues, I'm taking it one (slow) step at a time.

[strictlypersonl]

Every chassis has the mountings for the driver's side roll bar built in.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by strictlypersonl

Every chassis has the mountings for the driver's side roll bar built in.

Flygirl... if the cost for the mountings for the passenger's side roll bar is relatively nominal, you should go for it. It gives you, or subsequent owners, easy options in the future.

[428street]

I'd be more then happy to share any details about my car and/or all the things that I would do differently on a new build...I spent countless hours, days, road trips figuring out all the specifics on the Cobra Street car...I'm on here every once in a while but best to email me at fzabski@trmacs.com for quicker response...

[tkb289]

Originally Posted by 428street

I'd be more then happy to share any details about my car and/or all the things that I would do differently on a new build...I spent countless hours, days, road trips figuring out all the specifics on the Cobra Street car...I'm on here every once in a while but best to email me at fzabski@trmacs.com for quicker response...

Flygirl,

When I visited ERA a few years ago, I also met with 428street and looked at his street ERA ... the level of detail is amazing and the car is simply stunning. A fine example for you to look at and a great person to talk to about your project.

[Flygirl]

I think the Jag rear end components are sexy, it's really as simple as that. Cheaper, too, and I think to the average person it adds a bit of an exotic nature to the car.

Is that vain, or what?
:-)

[JWheaton]

Flygirl -

ERA has 2 under car exhaust options that will work. There is enough clearance. The side pipes hang lower than the frame rails so you should be all good with an under car exhaust. Maybe that is moot now and you are going with pipes..... I admit to skipping the last 3 pages of this thread.

The inboard brakes work well and save you a bunch on the budget for other items. As Peter told me when I was asking about converting mine to outboard brakes.... the rear brakes are not as important as the front. Get the larger front brakes. They are the ones that are going to stop you anyway.

Love the sunburst wheels. If (when) I build one it will have sunburst... I guess I could get a second set for the current cobra..

#677, street-style, with undercar exhaust

#677, street-style, with undercar exhaust

#592 With undercar exhaust, front exit

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by JWheaton

The inboard brakes work well and save you a bunch on the budget for other items.

Are you sure? The options list page Options list shows the Jag Rear at $4500 and the ERA Rear at $5200, if I'm reading that right. The larger brakes, on the other hand, are $1400.

Now back years ago, when I was spec'ing out my car, I'm pretty sure I remember Peter telling me that you wanted to keep the front and back brakes "consistent." Meaning, if you went to the larger on one, you went to the larger on the other, but you didn't want larger on one and smaller on the other (either way around). I also see that ERA has discontinued a larger brake option for Jag based rears. Big brakes And, if I remember correctly, you either did it all, or none; there was no "in between." Things may have changed, though.

Now, if all that is true, an "upgrade" to the bigger brakes and better rear is a $2100 option.

[JWheaton]

Originally Posted by patrickt

Are you sure? The options list page Options list shows the Jag Rear at $4500 and the ERA Rear at $5200, if I'm reading that right. The larger brakes, on the other hand, are $1400.

Now back years ago, when I was spec'ing out my car, I'm pretty sure I remember Peter telling me that you wanted to keep the front and back brakes "consistent." Meaning, if you went to the larger on one, you went to the larger on the other, but you didn't want larger on one and smaller on the other (either way around). I also see that ERA has discontinued a larger brake option for Jag based rears. Big brakes And, if I remember correctly, you either did it all, or none; there was no "in between." Things may have changed, though.

Now, if all that is true, an "upgrade" to the bigger brakes and better rear is a $2100 option.

Not sure of the optioning now. Back then for me was 8 years ago. I ended up buying instead of building. Had larger front and inboard rear. I remember asking the guys in the shop about the options that they recommended. Almost all of the said larger front brakes, but said nothing regarding the "larger" inboards. Either way the brakes are good all the way around at the base level if the car is just going to be used on the street. And $700 dollars is $700 towards other things.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by JWheaton

Either way the brakes are good all the way around at the base level if the car is just going to be used on the street. And $700 dollars is $700 towards other things.

I'll agree with that. And if she's watching the cost, the standard brakes and Jag rear is the way to go. Chances are the back pads, with street driving, will never need replacing in our lifetime anyway.

[Flygirl]

Originally Posted by patrickt

Are you sure? The options list page Options list shows the Jag Rear at $4500 and the ERA Rear at $5200, if I'm reading that right. The larger brakes, on the other hand, are $1400.

Now back years ago, when I was spec'ing out my car, I'm pretty sure I remember Peter telling me that you wanted to keep the front and back brakes "consistent." Meaning, if you went to the larger on one, you went to the larger on the other, but you didn't want larger on one and smaller on the other (either way around). I also see that ERA has discontinued a larger brake option for Jag based rears. Big brakes And, if I remember correctly, you either did it all, or none; there was no "in between." Things may have changed, though.

Now, if all that is true, an "upgrade" to the bigger brakes and better rear is a $2100 option.

This is what I understand, as well.

__________

As far as the hand brake goes, that's important. Not only for those "we're on a steep hill, why did you pull so close to the rear end of a special car that clearly has a manual transmission?" clutch engagements, but because I really got sick of carrying a 4x6 block of wood in my Mustang, opening the door, setting it on the ground, then slowly rolling the car forward until the left rear tire was against it.

Especially in San Francisco, where I lived at the time.

Parking on an uphill slope made the process even more difficult; I avoided it when at all possible.

To get underway (on a downhill slope), I'd back up, hold the brakes, retrieve the block of wood, toss it behind the driver's seat, then I was off. It was kind of a pain, and I was always afraid that some jerk would kick it free and the car would roll forward.

Even though the clutch didn't slip, on very steep hills that was a possibility, even in first or reverse if I didn't set the block of wood. Don't ask how I found out! Let's just say, if I hadn't angled my tires and parked firmly against the curb, it would have been a lot worse. Thank God the curb was as tall as it was.

[decooney]

Flygirl,

FYI: If you go with an authentic style handbrake on your ERA, when belted into the seat, unless you have pretty long arms, it might not be feasible to reach over across the tunnel over/and down and pull it up on a hill check in S.F., etc. Just in case you were wondering about that, just wanted to mention it. I've seen a few people sneak in a shorter handbrake lever over on the drivers side between the seat and the outer rail with non-standard width leather seats, and one handbrake to the inside might be tight if you tried to mount in on the floor on the drivers side instead of the tunnel. I've messed with e-Brake setup a bit on both of my Cobras with Jag rears. They work okay, but I would not trust my Jag e-Brake alone on my car on a semi-steep hill in S.F. I'd probably opt for some sort of a driveline lock if I had to go there. Incidentally, i've driven both of my past and current FE powered Cobras through downtown S.F, all over the hills there a few times (unplanned)... better have that bellhousing bottom shaved off too, or watch out for that manhole cover! It can be done, but probably not the quietest or most stress free place to be with a heavy duty clutch and rumbling FE. Most of the people look at you like our are from Mars when you come rolling through. Could not wait to get the #%^& outta there after a few steep hills and stops waiting for lights, etc

[B.M.B.C]

Flygirl
SSBC front calipers and Std Jag rear, and maybe some upgraded pads all round. Most Jaguar shops can fit rear pads in 1 hour, even pads/calipers are seized when fitted in there natural 2 ton surroundings.......