Warning: New Guy Content

[Large Arbor]

WTW,

I definitely agree with Patrick on the outboard brake options. I have the in board and I have had to change the stub axel shaft seal now twice due to oil leaks. The word is the brakes get too the rearend too hot and it causes seal failure. The cost was not so bad, $350 per time, but the labor was a big job.

I was fortunate enough to buy my ERA and am the second owner. Connecticut Custom did the paint and it was very good except for a couple of spots. I have the 6 pin wheels and an all aluminum 427 FE with sidepipes that make the sound so much of a rush. There are a few things that I would do different on an ERA and if you want reasons why message me and I will share them. A pic of mine is below.

Phil

[willtwallace]

Originally Posted by Large Arbor

WTW,

I definitely agree with Patrick on the outboard brake options. I have the in board and I have had to change the stub axel shaft seal now twice due to oil leaks. The word is the brakes get too the rearend too hot and it causes seal failure. The cost was not so bad, $350 per time, but the labor was a big job.

I was fortunate enough to buy my ERA and am the second owner. Connecticut Custom did the paint and it was very good except for a couple of spots. I have the 6 pin wheels and an all aluminum 427 FE with sidepipes that make the sound so much of a rush. There are a few things that I would do different on an ERA and if you want reasons why message me and I will share them. A pic of mine is below.

Phil

ah, now seal failure is a different animal. Thanks for the advice.

Yes, any and all input is needed. Shoot me a PM.

Thanks

[patrickt]

I think ERA has adopted all the little things I've complained about over the last ten years (like my clutch fork trimming thread). The only thing I can think of that would be really easy and cheap to add up front is to have a little trap door on the passenger side of the tunnel that lets you get to the front drive shaft u-joint for easy lubrication. Yes, you can snake up through the little brass e-brake coupling from down below, but I like to see all four seals purge out nicely. That's easy to do on the other five u-joints, but not the front one on the drive shaft.

Even if you don't go with dual roll bars (and that's ok), have them set the frame up so you can easily mount the second roll bar should you want to later. That's easily done up front, but much more of a pain if you do it later.

[davids2toys]

Originally Posted by patrickt

I think ERA has adopted all the little things I've complained about over the last ten years (like my clutch fork trimming thread). The only thing I can think of that would be really easy and cheap to add up front is to have a little trap door on the passenger side of the tunnel that lets you get to the front drive shaft u-joint for easy lubrication. Yes, you can snake up through the little brass e-brake coupling from down below, but I like to see all four seals purge out nicely. That's easy to do on the other five u-joints, but not the front one on the drive shaft.

Even if you don't go with dual roll bars (and that's ok), have them set the frame up so you can easily mount the second roll bar should you want to later. That's easily done up front, but much more of a pain if you do it later.

So i am sitting in VT on vacation in front of a fire with my laptop looking for this clutch fork thread you referenced. Well it has been six hours now and I have read most of the threads you have started. The good part is that i had some great laughs at all the back and forths with you, ChasEra, and Rodknock, the bad part is I never found your thread about the clutch fork trimming,
Can you give me some guidance?
Thanks...Dave

[DanEC]

I'm not sure the seal failure is a symptom unique of the inboard brakes - I may be wrong. Both rear suspension set ups utilize rebuilt parts and sourced parts and fabricated parts and on occassion things just fail - stuff happens. This is not criticism of ERA - their design and engineering of the chassis/suspension in this car is second to none.

You can probably scan over the history of posts under the ERA section and find several rear seal and rear bearing failures invovling the rebuilt differentials and I think they will be shot gunned across both the original and ERA rear suspension systems. That said, if you do your own work, access to the outboard brakes for bleeding and maintenance is much better. I can bleed my inboard brakes from under the car after installing speed bleeder units but a change of pads will involve pulling the seats and rear differential cover panel. It is much easier to just pull a wheel.

If the extra $700 or what ever (I thought it was more) is not that significant in you overall budget then it's really not an agonizing decision. For most of us that built with the standard Jag suspension, we either just couldn't afford to check every last option box or also in my case, I wanted to run undercar 2-1/2 inch tailpipes for exhaust.

[willtwallace]

Originally Posted by DanEC

I'm not sure the seal failure is a symptom unique of the inboard brakes - I may be wrong. Both rear suspension set ups utilize rebuilt parts and sourced parts and fabricated parts and on occassion things just fail - stuff happens. This is not criticism of ERA - their design and engineering of the chassis/suspension in this car is second to none.

You can probably scan over the history of posts under the ERA section and find several rear seal and rear bearing failures invovling the rebuilt differentials and I think they will be shot gunned across both the original and ERA rear suspension systems. That said, if you do your own work, access to the outboard brakes for bleeding and maintenance is much better. I can bleed my inboard brakes from under the car after installing speed bleeder units but a change of pads will involve pulling the seats and rear differential cover panel. It is much easier to just pull a wheel.

If the extra $700 or what ever (I thought it was more) is not that significant in you overall budget then it's really not an agonizing decision. For most of us that built with the standard Jag suspension, we either just couldn't afford to check every last option box or also in my case, I wanted to run undercar 2-1/2 inch tailpipes for exhaust.

good stuff, thank you.

[patrickt]

The way the Jag rear is designed is kind of funky in that it uses the half-shafts as the upper control arms. And I would venture to guess that the stress that we put on our Cobras is even harder than the average Jag driver. The bearings and seals can end up taking a pounding. At a minimum, Jag rear owners (and really outboard rear owners as well) should change the lube in a timely fashion. See this Coventry West tech tip: Dealing with your Jaguar Differential

[DanEC]

Originally Posted by patrickt

The way the Jag rear is designed is kind of funky in that it uses the half-shafts as the upper control arms. And I would venture to guess that the stress that we put on our Cobras is even harder than the average Jag driver. The bearings and seals can end up taking a pounding. At a minimum, Jag rear owners (and really outboard rear owners as well) should change the lube in a timely fashion. See this Coventry West tech tip: Dealing with your Jaguar Differential

Patrick,

There may be something to what you say but remember Kevin2 had a bearing go almost before he got out of the driveway - something less that 100 miles I think. I doubt his Jag rear end suffered this failure due to wear and tear. Literally, well over a million or two Jags and 63 - 83 Corvettes got by with the same arrangement just fine for decades. Probably a lot of other cars too. Corvettes have never had any issues with differential side bearings - it's always the outer spindle bearings that go first.

Patrick - just saying - I love you brother.