ERA 2136 Build Log

[wolf k]

Tim, I like your oil pan, is that an Aviaid? Is it still the lowest point under the car?
Wolfgang

[tkb289]

Originally Posted by wolf k

Tim, I like your oil pan, is that an Aviaid? Is it still the lowest point under the car?
Wolfgang

Wolf,

Thanks ... my engine builder recommend it, looks nice.

It is an Aviaid pan, here is the description:

AVIAID 155-55355
SBF - 289/302, front sump, original 289 Cobra
Length: 15"* Depth: 7 1/2"* Width: 12"* Quarts: 8

It is the lowest point, except for the very bottom part of the QuickTime bell housing, that extends down maybe 3/4" lower, at the bottom containment bolt.

Once I get the car running, have it aligned, height adjusted and corner weighted, I'll take another look. I know that ERA recommends the Lakewood bell housing be trimmed ... but to me, this one looks like it will be ok. I'll have to get it up on a rack and take some more measurements.

-Tim

[tkb289]

I admire the guys that put these cars all together … certainly takes time and talent!

[tkb289]

Alternator Question:

I am mocking up the alternator mounting using part of the kit form ERA, some of the 'original' Ford parts and will need to fabricate a spacer and buy one longer bolt.

Any recommendations regarding the location of the electrical posts on the back of the alternator? There is about 3/8" free space between the posts and the valve cover.

One thought would be to take the alternator to a shop, have it disassembled and the back portion rotated 120 degrees counter clockwise, so the two pieces of blue tape line up. This would put the connections further away from the valve cover.

Any thoughts?

Thanks!

[4pipes]

That's exactly what I was thinking.

[LightNFast]

...............................

[289fia_cobra]

Originally Posted by LightNFast

A rebuilt Autolite would give it that vintage look as well as correct the position of the terminals - Just a thought….
]Alternator_Autolite - Club Cobra Photo Gallery[/url]

That looks rather cool. Not for my car but for Tim,s it would be a neat addition and lines up with his build (not necessarily for his budget though... ;-) )

[289FIA]

Originally Posted by tkb289

Alternator Question:

...
One thought would be to take the alternator to a shop, have it disassembled and the back portion rotated 120 degrees counter clockwise, so the two pieces of blue tape line up. This would put the connections further away from the valve cover.

Congrats on 289 for your 289!

Regarding the alternator, I had a similar problem. Replacement part number was 7078 (like yours) and the rebuilt unit had the posts in the same location as yours. Interestingly, the original unit (the one I needed) had the posts 120 degrees rotated (like the one you need).

Back to another parts store with both and this time the 7078 in the box was a match. From what they told me, it happens often that rebuilders put the front cover back on in various positions. Quick online search of a 7078 at AutoZone, Advanced and O’Reilly shows some confusion.

I’m sure it can be rotated, but if you bought locally, you may want to open a few boxes before you disassemble yours.

Cheers,
289FIA

[tkb289]

Originally Posted by 289FIA

Congrats on 289 for your 289!

Regarding the alternator, I had a similar problem. Replacement part number was 7078 (like yours) and the rebuilt unit had the posts in the same location as yours. Interestingly, the original unit (the one I needed) had the posts 120 degrees rotated (like the one you need).

Back to another parts store with both and this time the 7078 in the box was a match. From what they told me, it happens often that rebuilders put the front cover back on in various positions. Quick online search of a 7078 at AutoZone, Advanced and O’Reilly shows some confusion.

I’m sure it can be rotated, but if you bought locally, you may want to open a few boxes before you disassemble yours.

Cheers,
289FIA

Great suggestion, thanks!

My engine builder supplied the alternator, so it's out of the box and been run on the car.

In looking at it, I'll probably try the setup as it is, and put on some plastic caps to keep wayward tools and other metal bits out of harm's way. Rotating the housing is something easily done later on.

[Tom Howland]

Yes,
Spin the housing. The wiring will look better.

[289fia_cobra]

It's not bad so long as you insulate it (i.e. brake nipple caps). I have a somewhat similar issue but it's 3/8" from the engine block but to date, no arcing has ever occurred while "driving" the car, but when it comes time to "service" it for whatever reason, it's best to have your kill key handy and cut off the battery BEFORE you work on it. Ask me how I know this!!!!!

[wolf k]

Tim, I would think you could rotate that front housing 120 deg, and not disrupt the internal wiring, that is if the bolt pattern on the cases is symmetrical. But I agree with 289fia in that it is not a necessity. I wired mine up as your photos, the ERA harness seemed sized correct in length for that location.

[*13*]

I have a different ALT but I did have to turn mine 180 deg. It's still damn close to the cover & makes removing the valve cover a little tricky.

[289fia_cobra]

Tim, you better play the lottery! Getting #289 for your 289 is a sign to get Lotto ticket.

[ZOERA-SC7XX]

Originally Posted by 289fia_cobra

Tim, you better play the lottery! Getting #289 for your 289 is a sign to get Lotto ticket.

That was your lotto ticket. Enjoy.

[tkb289]

Originally Posted by 289fia_cobra

Tim, you better play the lottery! Getting #289 for your 289 is a sign to get Lotto ticket.

Originally Posted by ZOERA-SC7XX

That was your lotto ticket. Enjoy.

Thanks guys ... it's a lotto ticket I'll gladly take !

[tboneheller]

Why don't you remove the 3 bolts & re-clock the alternator? The only "tricky" part is sliding the springs & brushes back into the brush holder & retaining them with a tooth pick.(There is a hole in the back side of the case next to the rear bearing that the tooth pick should protrude through. See the hole in the picture in the above post?) After you re-clock & re-assemble the alternator, remove the tooth pick so the brushes will contact the armature. Five minute job.

[Quik289]

I took mine to a local alternator rebuilding shop. Re-clocking 120 degrees was so easy for them they didn't even charge me. Of course, I tried to do it myself first, but back would not turn after 3 bolts removed even though it was loose - didn't want to break something as I didn't have a playbook. Works great now.

[tkb289]

Thanks for the alternator suggestions. I have it mounted and kind of like the way the wires dress across the back of the alternator, so will leave it as is for now, will post a few photos later.

Working on selecting a muffler to use for the partial under car exhaust setup, once I have the muffler, then the rest of the pipe work can be figured out.

Transmission shifter has been turned around 180 degrees, trans oil (GM Synchromesh) added and drive shaft connected.

Also working on mounting the clutch slave cylinder & linkage, which leads me to a question:

Does anyone use a rubber boot to seal the bell housing opening at the clutch fork? I am under the impression that most do not and that a boot for the Quicktime setup is not available. Comment or suggestions?

[tboneheller]

I made a boot for mine out of duct tape.