Torquing intake manifold bolts question

[davids2toys]

Originally Posted by lippy

Here's what I do:
- Use ARP thread lube on the threads and under the washers. I used ARP bolts and washers, no lock washers. 25 ft-lb.
- Put all the bolts in and torque them as tight as I can with a knurled finger wheel (something like this) SK 45172 3/8-Inch Drive 1-1/2-Inch Professional Thumbwheel Ratchet - Socket Wrenches - Amazon.com
- Torque in sequence bringing them up to maybe 15 or 18 ft-lb. Start with a couple I can get a torque wrench on and eyeball the travel of the wrench (for example, 180 degrees)
- On the ones I can't get a torque wrench on, use whatever wrench works (for me a box wrench) and swing the wrench the same amount of travel.
- Go back in sequence and tighten up again to 25 ft-lb.
- Check torque after a heat cycle, and again after a week or so. I found that with the hard Cometic gaskets I used I needed very little retorque.

Very interesting approach! Why lube on the threads? That is a quick way to over torque without even realizing it. Also, why no lock washers?
Do you know the proper sequence to tighten them? Are you sure about the 25 lbs, Dan has me wondering???

I borrowed a friends weird wrench. It is a open end on one end and a 3/8 12 point hinged socket on the other end. It is about 6" long. I can actually get on both of them with this! No freakin leverage though, even trying to move one the others that I went to 20 lbs was impossible, and I don't want to resort to the PIPE! I may have to though. I also do not have a set point because they are already tightened different amounts. I am definitely afraid to back off and start at zero as you suggest because I'm afraid of leaks etc etc