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August 2018
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 05-16-2018, 07:00 AM
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No heater. The CTS is located in the passenger side port where the heater valve would be located and the sender for the analog temperature gauge is in the driver side port. I originally had them installed opposite of their current location but, I changed to more efficiently route the wiring; readings were identical from either location. If I did have a heater, I would try the tee in the driver side port and if it didn't function to my satisfaction I would drill and tap another port as others have suggested.
Ok, thanks.

I'm going the path of least resistance for now. Holley sender on the right side and gauge sender on the left side as the Edlebreock Performance RPM manifold is drilled correctly for that.

I think I will look into an extension for the t-stat housing that is threaded for a sender as that would likely work well. I'm just not sure if it's physically possible in an SPF Cobra with a 351W block and the surge tank mounted at the top front of the engine.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 05-16-2018, 04:23 PM
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Is there no room in the front water crossover to add a temp sender?

I would drill a hole, tap it 1/8 npt, and fit the sender.
That way you can see the engine warming up on all gauges.
Adding a sender after the thermostat, the gauge will barely work at all, then rise up, showing the thermostat operation.
Unless you want to see it that way.

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Last edited by Gaz64; 05-16-2018 at 04:25 PM..
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Old 05-16-2018, 06:39 PM
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Ok, how about we try this if you don't mind....where are the following located in your car?

1. Holley Sniper coolant temp sender?

2. Dash gauge coolant temp sender?

3. Heater return line?

BTW, the fitting on the intake manifold is the hot coolant to the heater, and the heater return goes to the water pump.
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 05-16-2018, 06:53 PM
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BTW, the fitting on the intake manifold is the hot coolant to the heater, and the heater return goes to the water pump.
If you must use a heater hose, this is correct.

Using the return hose would be like placing it in the bottom hose, as the return from the radiator.
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Old 05-17-2018, 07:10 AM
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Ok, I think my problem is solved thanks to Craig's Cobras.

In the second diagram in the link below he shows alternate plumbing for the water pump bypass hose and heater. If I switch over to this, I should be able to put an inline tee fitting for the EFI's CTS in the now lengthen bypass line up be the manifold and have engine temp coolant flowing past it all the time.

I'm headed this route over drill a tap of my manifold unless anyone sees issues with it. There is just not much room on my manifold around the MSD distributor and the other sensors so it would turn out like a bit of a cluster.

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Old 05-20-2018, 08:59 AM
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I came up with a better solution for the Roush 427R. There is an aluminum spacer block that holds t-stat housing 2" off the front of the motor. I am drilling and tapping that and putting a small weep hole in the t-stat.
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