Dissapointing year end with my Roush 427R

[james911pro]

I got the first 50 miles on her now that it finally stop raining here! She is running great..NO SMOKE! perfect start up and smooth running. I am still cautious but I am definitely feeling better about this engine. I want to keep everyone up to date considering the amazing amount of participation on my thread. 50 miles "ain't" much but its a good start.

[wanab5150]

I read only part of this thread but wanted to state that you all must know that there are NO Roush parts on these Roush motors. They are simply Dart blocks complete from dart with AFR heads labeled with the Roush name. They won't tell me who made the cam but I assure you Roush didn't cut it.
I have a Roush 427r with 24K miles and am currently having a lifter issue....several have bad bearings and I am changing them out. If Roush engines are bad then any Dart block motor with AFR heads is the same.

Smedding and many others build the exact engine with the exact block, crank, rods, pistons, and heads...they just don't say Roush on the valve covers. Maybe I've had good luck till now, but for now it's just a new set of lifters. And yes, mine has burned a quart of oil every 500 to 1000 miles depending what type of roads I'm hot rodding on and that is very normal on a 10.5 compression engine.

Maybe I missed the boat somewhere in the 10 pages of Roush trashing but I just wanted all to know Roush doesn't actually make anything on these engines...they just bolt together everyone else's parts just like everyone else and charge 2K more...I did 7 years ago and would probably do it again.

[Dimis]

Originally Posted by wanab5150

I read only part of this thread but wanted to state that you all must know that there are NO Roush parts on these Roush motors. They are simply Dart blocks complete from dart with AFR heads labeled with the Roush name. They won't tell me who made the cam but I assure you Roush didn't cut it.
I have a Roush 427r with 24K miles and am currently having a lifter issue....several have bad bearings and I am changing them out. If Roush engines are bad then any Dart block motor with AFR heads is the same.

Smedding and many others build the exact engine with the exact block, crank, rods, pistons, and heads...they just don't say Roush on the valve covers. Maybe I've had good luck till now, but for now it's just a new set of lifters. And yes, mine has burned a quart of oil every 500 to 1000 miles depending what type of roads I'm hot rodding on and that is very normal on a 10.5 compression engine.

Maybe I missed the boat somewhere in the 10 pages of Roush trashing but I just wanted all to know Roush doesn't actually make anything on these engines...they just bolt together everyone else's parts just like everyone else and charge 2K more...I did 7 years ago and would probably do it again.

Give two bakers the same ingredients and often the resulting cakes don't taste the same...

Jus' sayin'

[blykins]

Unfortunately, that is not normal oil consumption, no matter what the compression ratio is. That has a lot to do with the ring pack, block prep, valve seals, etc.

[AL427SBF]

Originally Posted by Dimis

Give two bakers the same ingredients and often the resulting cakes don't taste the same...

Jus' sayin'

That says it all.

[james911pro]

I'm back!! finally spring has sprung here and the engine is finally perfect... it took some time but its not burning oil anymore changed the oil after the first 500miles in the fall and she was only down a few drips!! That is normal for the brake-in. What a saga but its done! thanks for all for the help!!

[james911pro]

Originally Posted by wanab5150

I read only part of this thread but wanted to state that you all must know that there are NO Roush parts on these Roush motors. They are simply Dart blocks complete from dart with AFR heads labeled with the Roush name. They won't tell me who made the cam but I assure you Roush didn't cut it.
I have a Roush 427r with 24K miles and am currently having a lifter issue....several have bad bearings and I am changing them out. If Roush engines are bad then any Dart block motor with AFR heads is the same.

Smedding and many others build the exact engine with the exact block, crank, rods, pistons, and heads...they just don't say Roush on the valve covers. Maybe I've had good luck till now, but for now it's just a new set of lifters. And yes, mine has burned a quart of oil every 500 to 1000 miles depending what type of roads I'm hot rodding on and that is very normal on a 10.5 compression engine.

Maybe I missed the boat somewhere in the 10 pages of Roush trashing but I just wanted all to know Roush doesn't actually make anything on these engines...they just bolt together everyone else's parts just like everyone else and charge 2K more...I did 7 years ago and would probably do it again.

Wannab I have to agree with the others and 1 quart per 500 to 1000 miles is not normal anywhere I checked! Regarding the quote with the same ingredients for different bakers is true I think.

[Dimis]

Originally Posted by james911pro

I'm back!! finally spring has sprung here and the engine is finally perfect... it took some time but its not burning oil anymore changed the oil after the first 500miles in the fall and she was only down a few drips!! That is normal for the brake-in. What a saga but its done! thanks for all for the help!!

Awesome news.

Enjoy

[crazychris]

I have a 2015 Roush 427sr and the motor uses oil. The problem is I can't tell where it is going. No leaks, no smoke and the plugs look perfect. The car has 2600 miles and when I bought it it had 1000 and was past the 2yr warranty. Since the first few hundred miles it has used oil. Spoke to roush today and going to send them pictures of the plugs. I just can't wrap my head around how a engine that other then the oil issue is kickin. Very confused about this.

[ERA 626]

why not get a motor from shelby engine co? Joe is the best in the business and they give a warrenty!! even better... its a shelby... I Know joe ( the builder) personally he is legit...

[Lou1119]

Originally Posted by crazychris

I have a 2015 Roush 427sr and the motor uses oil. The problem is I can't tell where it is going. No leaks, no smoke and the plugs look perfect. The car has 2600 miles and when I bought it it had 1000 and was past the 2yr warranty. Since the first few hundred miles it has used oil. Spoke to roush today and going to send them pictures of the plugs. I just can't wrap my head around how a engine that other then the oil issue is kickin. Very confused about this.

My Roush engine used oil for the first 500 miles (1/2 quart ) and since then it uses about 1/8 quart every 500 miles not bad at all for a high performance engine in my estimation. I consider it part of the price you pay for a car as impractical as a Cobra. Still love the dam thing.

[crazychris]

It is a new engine....Lou, This is Chris, Does your cobra have a rich smell at idle? Mine does and the Oil issue is concerning. It really seems to go through it. I am not sure what is happening with this low mileage engine. Every time I drive the piss out of it I come back after a 100-150 miles and it needs another solo cups worth to top it off. I now have 2500 miles on the car so break in should have happened. I will give you a call to discuss. But, for everyone else where does this oil go? There is no pressure build up that I can tell, no blow by and there is no smoke. I did notice that the pvc hose seems abit oily at the valve, but that would account for only a couple drops. Engine bay is impeccable, no leaks....nothing. Just can't figure this out. But, the car hauls ass and has a lot of torque. So, anyone who has had this problem let me know.

[66gtk]

Originally Posted by crazychris

It is a new engine....Lou, This is Chris, Does your cobra have a rich smell at idle? Mine does and the Oil issue is concerning. It really seems to go through it. I am not sure what is happening with this low mileage engine. Every time I drive the piss out of it I come back after a 100-150 miles and it needs another solo cups worth to top it off. I now have 2500 miles on the car so break in should have happened. I will give you a call to discuss. But, for everyone else where does this oil go? There is no pressure build up that I can tell, no blow by and there is no smoke. I did notice that the pvc hose seems abit oily at the valve, but that would account for only a couple drops. Engine bay is impeccable, no leaks....nothing. Just can't figure this out. But, the car hauls ass and has a lot of torque. So, anyone who has had this problem let me know.

Are you sure there is NO smoke at all? After driving it for 20 minutes or so until it is full warmed up, let it sit for 10 and restart it observing very carefully for smoke. I'll bet you see some. Do not examine only on a cold start. Furthermore, assuming you have side pipes, drive on the street at night and observe your exhaust as it hits the headlights and such of cars idling near you or as you drive away.

What heads does your car have?

[hauss]

After reading all the post I have be left with greedy corporations and ignorant people who is to blame and witch is worse when booth are to blame.I want to say great story but I just do not feel that way.

[BOBOCobra]

I did notice that the pvc hose seems abit oily at the valve, but that would account for only a couple drops.

Do not discount the amount of oil that a PVC valve can suck. You might think it is a couple drops but it can pull pretty good volumes over a 150 mile run depending on the driving habits. Put in a simple oil separater on the PVC line and collect the oil and measure it. Why not spend $30 and eliminate that possibility before you start tearing things apart.

[crazychris]

Originally Posted by 66gtk

Are you sure there is NO smoke at all? After driving it for 20 minutes or so until it is full warmed up, let it sit for 10 and restart it observing very carefully for smoke. I'll bet you see some. Do not examine only on a cold start. Furthermore, assuming you have side pipes, drive on the street at night and observe your exhaust as it hits the headlights and such of cars idling near you or as you drive away.

What heads does your car have?

They are the roush AFR heads.

I think I may have found the issue. I spoke to the guys at the roush booth at the goodguys car show yesterday and one of them was a ex superformance dealer who now works for roush. When I explained my issue he told me right off the bat that he knew what it was, but then said that I would not believe him.
He told me the dipstick was wrong and the car was throwing the oil up on the block and cylinder walls at high speed and much of the oil was burned and the byproducts were going out the pcv valve. He told me to pull the drain plug, drain the oil, put 7 qts of oil. Then take a reading on the stick. It showed on the stick that it was at the add mark. I then filled the new filter with oil, removed and replaced the old. And, when I took the car out for a 100 miles or so trip. The oil was right where it was for the new reading. So, I am crossing my fingers that this was the problem....Disaster diverted, unless he is full of ****, and the car runs low on oil. Then, I will be talking to him and roush again.

[jmimac351]

Originally Posted by hauss

After reading all the post I have be left with greedy corporations and ignorant people who is to blame and witch is worse when booth are to blame.I want to say great story but I just do not feel that way.

Agreed. Witches and John Wilkes Booth are terrible, notwithstanding grammar.

[Jdata]

Originally Posted by AL427SBF

That says it all.

Which proves even brand name engine builders like roush aren't perfect either. You're just buying a name. It's no different than putting a name on a valve cover.

Your oil burning issue sounds like oil control issue like me lykins said.

If roush truly blueprint of the engine there would be aware of this issue incorrect it you're a butt you can tell it's basically Budget building 101 and mooching every penny out of a customer because of a name. Sorry I have never bought into big-name engine builders for the masses. I believe in the smaller companies. Their attention to detail is amazing. There are a lot of engine builders out there they can put some of these big names out of business.

However, don't get me wrong or roush can build awesome engines... But you better have a big paycheck and something incentive for them.

[ERA 626]

Originally Posted by fordracing65

And to think Roush upcharges these engines because of his name, what a joke, I have said for years he is right up there with the Shelbys of this world, no wonder Blykins, Survival motorsports, and Craft have such a good name, quality builds with there name backing it.

FYI The Shelby Engine Co is under new ownership. It was purchased by Bill Denbeste of Denbeste Motorsports. I personally know Bill and Joe the builder. Great people! so dont go by experiences with the old Shelby Engine Co. complete different ball game.

[cycleguy55]

Originally Posted by crazychris

It is a new engine....Lou, This is Chris, Does your cobra have a rich smell at idle? Mine does and the Oil issue is concerning. It really seems to go through it. I am not sure what is happening with this low mileage engine. Every time I drive the piss out of it I come back after a 100-150 miles and it needs another solo cups worth to top it off. I now have 2500 miles on the car so break in should have happened. I will give you a call to discuss. But, for everyone else where does this oil go? There is no pressure build up that I can tell, no blow by and there is no smoke. I did notice that the pvc hose seems abit oily at the valve, but that would account for only a couple drops. Engine bay is impeccable, no leaks....nothing. Just can't figure this out. But, the car hauls ass and has a lot of torque. So, anyone who has had this problem let me know.

See if you can get someone to follow you and observe whether they see signs of smoke, and whether it's on acceleration, engine braking or the transition from one to the other.

BTW, I had high oil consumption on my 460, and it turned out the intake manifold gaskets were allowing oil to be sucked from the valley when under high manifold vacuum (engine braking). It was pointed out by one of our car group observing from behind. I replaced the intake manifold gaskets and valve stem seals (they were okay, not great) and the problem is gone.