That other guy named Ed and DVs CRII build

[Double Venom]

It may appear to be advancing slowly, but that is so far from the truth! So many little details....
Earlier I mentioned using 'push button' type door latches- they would work great in a street rod where the button is actually in the door using only a very short cable but to use in a CR Cobra we found out it is not feasible. A tremendous amount of 'thumb' strenght would be needed to pop the locks due to the geometry and the lenght of the cable. (They use the same type pull cable as CR's used.)

So, back to the parts store, I went through four different types of handles (all to wide to fit in the given/allocated area.) I found an old style, type handle that will work.

Pictures show un-modified, modified and ready for installation.







Since 'chrome' looked a little splashy with Ed's interior I removed the chrome finish, re-sealed the handles and then painted a wrinkle finish medium gray. Next, we'll install.....
DV

[Kawika]

Ed do you have a part number for those handles or where I could get them. Dave

[Double Venom]

Dave,
Got them off the old "HELP" stand from Car Quest, GM handles, one left, one right part number for one of them is 77025-however after I did the modifications I think you Could use the same handle for both sides! I'll post pictures of where and how I installed them to cpteddies car. Basically the same place that the manual calls for.
DV

[Double Venom]

Plan B:
Handles are great, but I didn't like the bushings I had to manufacture. The bracket ended up much wider than it needed to be and with the larger bushings. It also had 'some' wobble to the handle. I do not like 'wobble' .

Got a new one made and much, much better-er
I'll post pictures of the new bracket tomorrow. Long day when you start before 4 AM.......
DV

[Double Venom]

Moving forward;
Something for cpteddies scrap book- Described this a couple of times before in other posts but this time from the beginning for those that have asked.

Before:





Tomorrow the making and installation of an aluminum nose insert.

DV

[onefastmustang]

Now thats what I want to see.. I want to make one for my CR II.

[capteddie]

Ok DV.... trying to shake off the willies with all these last hour gremlins

How about an update on where we're at and where we still need to get to... I'm planning on stopping by the shop on 8/1

[Double Venom]

Do you know how UGLY a DEAD GREMLIN Looks like? Eeeeeewwww!

Ran probably a hundred tests, Like Edison said I didn't fail 2,7?? times making the light bulb but I did find out that 2,77? bulbs didn't work. It only took ONE to make it right!!

MSD Male/Female connector was together BUT< NOT TIGHT. "Clicked" into place at the litest touch and your baby fired up on first crank!

Finishing the nose today, the front wiring tomorrow and MONDAY it will be at BAKKERS.
Damm..
DV

[capteddie]

YES!!!YES!!!YES!!!YES!!!

Thats what I'm talking about. Thank you so much!!!!!

I'll be at your place first thing Saturday morning. But if its still at Bakkers. I'll just stop by there on Saturday and check things out.

Again... Thanks!!!

[johnnyelectric]

"Maybe John was trying to sabotage us Maybe that little truck of his isn't that fast after all "
540HP rear wheel dyno yesterday,with a little more carb work 600

[capteddie]

Originally Posted by johnnyelectric

"Maybe John was trying to sabotage us Maybe that little truck of his isn't that fast after all "
540HP rear wheel dyno yesterday,with a little more carb work 600

Ok Ok uncle! you win

Man that things a monster! Nice job John!

[johnnyelectric]

Cobra + Blown 440 ???? well ??

[onefastmustang]

Originally Posted by Double Venom

Do you know how UGLY a DEAD GREMLIN Looks like? Eeeeeewwww!

Ran probably a hundred tests, Like Edison said I didn't fail 2,7?? times making the light bulb but I did find out that 2,77? bulbs didn't work. It only took ONE to make it right!!

MSD Male/Female connector was together BUT< NOT TIGHT. "Clicked" into place at the litest touch and your baby fired up on first crank!

Finishing the nose today, the front wiring tomorrow and MONDAY it will be at BAKKERS.
Damm..
DV

did you take pictures of the nose... I want to see...

[johnnyelectric]

very cool !!

[Double Venom]

Hmmm,
I can do that! (Next winter? )
John, very, very impressive! I didn't see your second run, but WE SURE AS HECK HEARD IT! I thought for sure you hit the 600 mark or came very close to it! Pack another 1,000 lbs in that 1/4 tone P/U and we'll puts Ed's up to the task!

DV

O.F.M., no pictures yet, taking the entire assembly and will post them at one time---stay cool

PS.... put a level on that blower! Looks like he is using Don's motor mounts! OR, is it just me being jealous?

[jimhurtt]

Cap Teddie or DV. Can I ask a quick question? I am installing the NAPA prop rod for my trunk like yours. I downloaded the pics you showed. Can you tell me how many inches from the top of the trunk lid you installed it and how many inches from the trunk opening lip you installed the bracked for the bottom? That would be a tremendous help to me. Thanks

Jim Hurtt

[Double Venom]

Jim,

From the bottom of the trunk lid, the plate for the latch is 14 1/2"s (O.C.).

The bottom plate sits on a "stand-out' bracket I fabricated and mounted with 10x24x 1/2' machine screws. Kind of like a staight legged "Z", where the top and bottom of the "Z" are 5/8's inches and the stright down leg is 2-1/4 inches. It is placed 3 &1/2" inches back from the front edge of the trunk opening.

The top of the "Z" is screwed down with the top of the "Z" UNDER the edge of the trunk opening.

With the pictures you have I hope this is a little/lot clearer than mud!

The top of the rod is mounted using "nut-zerts" and of course is mounted into the inside ridge of the trunk.

Need more? This is what this 67 page forum is all about!

NUTZERT install:



This is a poor shot of the lower bracket, but.... the top of the 'Z' lower bracket is 1/2" x 3"s.
I made it this long to put less load on the trunk flange in a small area. (I pulled back the trunk seal so it could be seen a little better.)



One more thing; If you notice, I reversed the lower mounting bracket from the way it came so the bottom of the bracket didn't stick out too far into the trunk area.

DV

[jimhurtt]

Thanks DV for taking the time out to detail the trunk rod mounting. It will enable me to mount it with less guess work. One other question that may seem a bit lame but where does the sending unit for the engine temperature gauge go? Before or after the thermostat? Mine is mounted in the water neck between the thermostat and the radiator so it is measuring the water temperature through the top radiator hose after the thermostat has opened. Is that right?

Thanks.

jim hurtt

[Double Venom]

Jim,
Posted this hours ago but at the same time CC crashed... Water from the engine (heads) goes to the thermostat and back to the radiator. (IF thermostat is open.).

Basically you can place it in the most convienant spot-as long as you know- what side of the thernmostat it is reading.

People, buddy, friend, mechanic, etc., etc..., there are no lame questions here. I, personally have not answered one question that I hadn't asked at one time or the other!

DV

[MaSnaka]

Jim, my sender is in the top of the intake manifild just behind the thermostat. It reads the water temp in the engine and when the thermostat opens you can see the temp drop. Then the temp will slowly rise to the normal operating temp as I continue driving.

John