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Very much appreciated...............
It is a labor of lust.... ;) |
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Process complete, should keep rocks out of the Webers
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I have spent a lot of time looking at your thread, your car looks great but one thing that sticks out to me is how hi it seems to sit, is this normal?
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Scott, formidable question? Detail your question..... :confused:
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This may help?
289FIA vs 427 |
That's certainly better. However, I think rocks will find a way. Unless you completely encapsulate the engine compartment.
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Agree, looks more complete though.
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Scott
Did the ERA 289 vs 427 help? The slabside LeMans cars do look different to the masses? |
How did you fabricate the lower hose pipework with the otter switch? Are these available anywhere?
Roger |
Sort of randomly.
With the Fluidyne the lower radiator tube is transverse to the car versus my original radiator which has a short straight tube. Using the original radiator, which I saved for now there is no magic short straight With the Fluidyne it was three trips to the auto store and cutting of larger hoses that appeared to work. I did not take down the numbers of the hoses as it is just a trial and error thing that is easy to redo just time consuming. Sorry hope that helps. The otter switch tube is original. I think Shelby parts repopped though. |
One can alway download the ERA manual for some "reference" part numbers. Should get you close enough to, at least, get an idea
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Original on car
Repop unit in alloy pictured |
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Hand made Stainless
Hope I answered your question |
Nice job!
Larry |
Yes, good work! I haven't found anyone currently offering repops of this part so may have to go the stainless fabricated route. Also the car is RHD, so there doesn't seem to be room for it to fit through the gap where the steering pinion goes through the frame. Another bit to think about!
Roger |
Roger
Ahhhhh did not consider the RHD.. Well, that would be something to ask Hawk cars maybe? |
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So I've made up my own in stainless steel, and have the thermoswitch on the top hose. Good news is that Jim Cowles can supply repro castings of the correct type. I'm getting one from him so I can play with it and see what's what. My car has 3/4" aluminium spacers under the rack, holding it higher, which may be to improve the geometry. I think this is taking up the room for the cast pipe, so I need to investigate further! Roger |
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Is the rear body hi as well to clear the flares maybe? Just looks like the body is mounted to hi. |
Scott
The body sits in the frame which is to original specs with full birdcage. Keep in mind buggy spring cars settle and after that occurs, which it mostly has @ 2.5" from fender to top of tire, it is 289 correct. A car I judged at SAAC39 concours sank to 2" post a ten year restoration which is normal. It also used the same exact tire. The top of the tire to the body is correct in front and the rear as well. Keep in mind LeMans bodied cars limit the rear stroke as the tire will hit the body and it is void the Slabside drop which is an additional 1.5" if it were there and with the overall space at 3.5" unloaded. That said if the rear was still Slabside it would yield a 2" drop. Thus the front 0.5" higher which is perfect in Slabside cars. Now most race cars I have looked at, a number, have been lowered and extended Slabside flare to compensate for small diameter wider tires. For example typical drop is 1"+ and an additional 1/2"-1" width on flare. Several cars I have seen have made these changes. 427 are low, 289 cars with original suspension geometry are a taller look visually and the frame close to the same. So it's perception, how it's set up, what it's set up for and what the owner likes. Hope this helps? |
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CSX8000 examples
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