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  #101 (permalink)  
Old 05-09-2014, 06:26 PM
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At four bolts per side Rog I don't want to be doing that again in any multiples I can tell you.
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  #102 (permalink)  
Old 05-10-2014, 05:38 AM
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Should be fine like that. The main force is shear, although keep in mind that those bolts are also acting as the upper control arm so don't go around corners too fast

I don't remember having any problems when I did mine, but I had the whole thing out of the car. I think I used a cold chisel to break it apart.
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  #103 (permalink)  
Old 05-12-2014, 06:24 AM
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Default Normal programming can now resume..............

A large sigh of relief as I finished off the driver's side drive shaft bolt replacement saga tonight.





The above are really nothing photos but represent a good week lost.

Anyway with some trepidation I had to also replace and tightened up a couple of cone nuts on the passenger side of the diff. Managed this without any further dramas.

So am back on track again.

Will revisit the brake bleeding but pumping the pedal doesn't change the stroke and it's pretty firm so I think I pretty much nailed that the first time.

I didn't disconnect the rear calliper in all this work so I just want to properly seal off the bleed screws and do a final test.

With that done its refit the drive shaft and exhaust, refill the gearbox and then I can focus on finishing off the accelerator pedal assembly.

After that I think it might be time for an engine start event and see what happens.

Is your video battery charged Stiffy???

Cheers guys

Slo
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  #104 (permalink)  
Old 05-12-2014, 04:16 PM
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Default Batteries ready

Slowly,

I'm ready, what about this Saturday?

Stiffy
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  #105 (permalink)  
Old 05-12-2014, 06:20 PM
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Stiff

No idea at this time but will let you know as the week progresses.

This will depend on whether I can get into my shed at night to do these odd jobs needed.

Will certainly be trying to get to this point though.

Cheers
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  #106 (permalink)  
Old 05-21-2014, 06:55 AM
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Default Small progress update

Had managed to reassemble a swag of bits last weekend leaving me with the accelerator pedal refit as the next job on the list.

Using a rodeo pedal assembly and as previously mentioned, have given it the pretzel treatment to improve fit.

The recommended pedal swings on a substantial tab welded to the pedal box and I can mount off this to locate the rodeo assembly. This means I don't have to go to great extremes trying to mount off the inside firewall.

The photo shows the set up as currently clamped in place.



The red G clamp is holding a simple L shaped piece of plate onto the existing tab and to which the pedal assembly has also been clamped.

I will make up the proper mount plate and get the assembly into position first and then I will bend and rotate the pedal to be parallel to the brake.

As set I can roll between the accelerator and brake as desired. No doubt the practical application of this technique will need a bit of live practising though.

And set up in the cockpit this arrangement seems to operate fine which is the important bit.

Enjoy

Steve
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  #107 (permalink)  
Old 05-23-2014, 08:13 PM
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Looking good Slowly. Can't wait to see the engine start video. .
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  #108 (permalink)  
Old 05-23-2014, 10:18 PM
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Looking good Slowly. Can't wait to see the engine start video. .
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  #109 (permalink)  
Old 05-26-2014, 01:47 AM
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Default Another good weekend's work

Managed two out of three targets over the weekend past.

The Yellow and Black bellowed for once and I managed to fit up the rodeo accelerator pedal into final position as seen in the photos below. So two good results.

The G-Force accelerator pivot point was through the heavy bracket that can be seen end on just above and to the left of the accelerator pedal.

I used this as the anchor point for the plate the pedal assembly was bolted to and which can be seen behind the accelerator.



Side view better shows the plate attachment point. The backing plate is about 15mm off the firewall at the top and 25mm at the bottom.

I set the pedal somewhat further in than the brake to help with heel and toe action but it may need further adjustment later. Best thing is that this now gives me the two return spring actions I need on the accelerator cable.



You can also see how much I bent the pedal arm up for it to suit my original set up. However it operates well and the pedal wont jamb on anything now, a risk the previous set up posed.



This last picture shows the car set up to try and achieve the 3rd target which was a first start of the new motor. But she wouldn't fire.



It was right at end of day but I did learn that I hadn't tightened some of the fuel connections at the rear. So had to fix these amongst a very small splash of petrol thankfully first.

Have managed a GoPro video of the attempt but am stuck as to how to downsize it enough to upload to Photobucket. Currently around 400MB size.

Anyway pretty boring listening first to me and then the car turning over to no effect.

So a bit of investigation now to see why no action. Sounded quite dead like it had either no spark or fuel (or both) getting where it should.

You will know about it though when the beast is running.

Cheers

Steve
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  #110 (permalink)  
Old 05-26-2014, 01:52 AM
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Very nice Slowy. Your progress updates are a welcome breath of fresh air in this place.

Cheers
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  #111 (permalink)  
Old 05-26-2014, 02:05 AM
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Thanks MIke.

Know what you mean, the griping has turned me cold.

Life's too short for that sort of sh.1.te.

Anyway I stay head down and bum up in the shed to get this thing back on the road.

Am really hoping it's something simple.

With the movement of the coil packs to behind the block I wonder if I've mixed up here some how. But then it could be anything I guess, time will tell.

How's your shed going, you managing to get work?

Cheers

Steve
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  #112 (permalink)  
Old 05-26-2014, 02:11 AM
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Have you pulled a plug to see if you have spark? also have you got a volt meter? Start by looking for your battery supplies to injectors and coils. You should also be able to see the trigger pulses from the injector looms and coil looms.

I've been contracting since Christmas and recently got a permanent gig which has been taking p all my time. I've been beavering away on the Cobra bodywork but no exciting progress worth posting.

Cheers
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  #113 (permalink)  
Old 05-26-2014, 02:19 AM
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Thanks Mike

All the sort of stuff I'll be doing over the next period.

At least your earning.

A bloke that was retrenched a month or two before me at TPI has only just got a job in the past week. A good year off the serious breadline......that would have had me depressed!

Ciao
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  #114 (permalink)  
Old 05-26-2014, 03:42 AM
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Try YouTube or video.com for video hosting Slowy.

How did the oil pressure look when cranking?
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  #115 (permalink)  
Old 05-26-2014, 04:29 AM
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Slowy - Mike's suggestion was what I had - no 12V to the Injectors.

Great progress - looking forward to the start video.

What about driving it on the shed run in a few weeks :-) Nothing like a deadline to get things moving :-)

Keep up the good work.
cheers

Gregg
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  #116 (permalink)  
Old 05-26-2014, 04:32 AM
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Yeah, what's what I was going to suggest sambo. Load your video on YouTube slo. Easy peasy.

And keep the updates happening. I'm enjoying them too.
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  #117 (permalink)  
Old 05-26-2014, 05:31 PM
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Thanks guys

Paul think I have a gauge sender issue I'll need to sort as I think it was doing something odd compared to what I recall first time about. Full deflection with ignition on. A bit more research needed.

Gregg yes suspect spark just need to figure out why. Do I need seat trimming to be able drive a car - lol But there is too much else to be done yet before she hits the road in any serious form yet. I've waited 6 years so a few more months will pass in a twinkle.

Last time I posted to U-tube some knob head said the car sounded like a tram! Probably a ricer who knows.

Anyway I'll work it out sometime.

Cheers
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  #118 (permalink)  
Old 05-27-2014, 02:33 AM
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Guys

Checked the driver's bank and each spark plug is pulsing when the engine cranks, so I'll assume I've got arcs.

I started to undo one of the fuel lines and got fuel release clearly under pressure but it made me think, does the standard AU fuel rail system have a definitive inlet and outlet side?

Wondering whether I've connected pump to what should be the fuel return side of the fuel rail manifold. Is this possible? It is a standard set up.

Checked the various fuses and though I initially thought I'd a blown a fusible link it wasn't sadly. That would have made for an easy fix.

So at a stop for the moment.

Feedback on the fuel rail manifold set up would be tremendous please guys.

Cheers

Steve
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  #119 (permalink)  
Old 05-27-2014, 05:54 AM
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Default ooh ahh - self testing

Had posted the question above about the ring fuel rail system but the wee pea brain was telling me to go try for myself.

So belatedly went and switched over the two main fuel supply and return hoses in the engine bay and what do you know .... life Jim but not as we know it!!!

Where have I heard that before??

Anyway am now getting coughs and splutters, so clearly I was trying to pump fuel against a one way valve the wrong way.

I'll have to struggle and swap over hose connections at the rear of the car so that the engine bay hosing stays as it is but clearly this outcome is a step in the right direction.

Have popped the battery on charge and we will see what transpires over the next few days.

Cheers guys
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Old 05-29-2014, 05:41 AM
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Default Starting help

So did my fuel supply and return line swap over and have tried a few times to start the car without success.

Am getting the odd pop and partial combustion happening but clearly something isn't right and the motor will not fire.

Almost like the timing is out but as an EFI motor it has me stumped.

So what should I be looking for lads?

Testing spark down the driver's bank of plugs and all were giving a good response.

Had previously asked about the cam sensor but thought I'd got it positioned right and have seen advise that it is somewhat irrelevant. Maybe it is not.

Can anyone help??

A stumped Slowy
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