Welcome back mate, there mustn't be much left to do once your motor returns.
What are your plans for the motor rebuild as I don't think you can change much prior to registration.

Richard

Richard, I haven't done any wiring yet; that would be the major task ahead.
The engine has to be standard for registration purposes; as you know, that gains an easy tick from Regency Park.
The power-to-weight ratio will be roughly equal to a GLA45; I'm 'mature' enough to not need any further ....'enhancements'.

Cheers!
Glen

Hi Glen,

Looks like steady progress on your build. Getting the motor all sorted before it goes into the car is a wise move.

Was the 302 originally mated to a manual transmission or an automatic transmission?

While the motor is in the shop, a few suggestions to consider especially if the motor was originally mated to an automatic transmission:

- Review with your engine man the whole flywheel / clutch, release bearing and starter motor setup that you plan to use.

- Discuss what type of crankshaft pilot (spigot) bearing or bushing to use with your Toploader. It will be much easier for him to change it in his shop, rather than you doing it in your garage, should it need to be changed. Sometimes they are easy, other times not so much.

- May also want look at the crankshaft end play, no doubt there is a spec for that. I am not an engine expert, but I would assume motors are built to accept either type of transmission and that crankshaft end play is the same or similar for both. Would not hurt to ask.

- As I recall you plan to run a hydraulic throwout (release) bearing, instead of an external slave cylinder setup, due to space constraints. You want to be sure your setup is correct to avoid having to take things out in case of an interference or a leak.

Keep up the great work, you are getting closer and closer to the completing the build and then driving & enjoying your stunning Cobra!


- Tim

Hi Tim,

Valuable comments, thanks.

The engine was originally mated to an automatic transmission in an AU II Ford Fairlane. FYI, the Fairlane was sold here in Australia until around 2007, unlike your American Fairlane.

I visited the workshop yesterday, and work has started on the engine. I’ll be in there again on Monday, and we will be talking about the spigot bearing (thanks) and also the flywheel / clutch / HTOB specs as well as the starter motor and steel bellhousing.

Yes, I’m aware of the critical nature of the alignment of the engine / bellhousing / gearbox, even more important when using an HTOB. Removing the gearbox to address a HTOB problem further down the track is something I want to avoid! I wish I could use a conventional hydraulic clutch actuation; I’m told I won’t have room for that, so proceeding along the HTOB route.
I will also ask about the crank end play.

It does feel like daylight at the end of a long tunnel is getting closer.

Comments and advice always appreciated!

Cheers,
Glen

Hi Glen,

Are you rebuilding this engine as complete refresh, new pistons, rings, new camshaft etc?

Gary

Hi Gary,
I know the history of the engine, and I’m not expecting surprises when it’s stripped down. That said, I know and trust these guys, and will follow their advice as to what they determine is required. The engine must be unmodified at the car’s inspection for road registration.

Cheers!
Glen

Absolutely agree with standard engine power Glen, there is an awful lot of blood, sweat & tears, not to mention time and money also invested into these cars. Mine will definitely just be a cruiser.

Cheers
Richard

Ok Glen, sounds good. Even a refreshed 5.0 EFI engine will be quick enough.

Are you staying EFI, or will it be Webers, or a Holley?

Gary

Hi Gary,

Our compliance is a little different to yours in Queensland. If I change anything from “standard” on the engine, the car will need to be subjected to an IM240 emissions test… and that I do want to avoid. Any changes I make need to be legal; the car is worth too much to risk any insurance issues.

So, what to do? Our club started looking at obtaining the same freedoms that the street rod guys have, particularly for emissions (ie virtually no boundaries), but they also have so many other freedoms. We are not far down that (long, long) track yet, but I’m hoping we can get there some time in the future.

Back to your question, ideally I would like the downdraft Webers as that is what the 289 Comp and FIA cars (and also COB6008, my “inspiration” car) used. The JWA GT40s at LM in ’68 and ’69 used a similar setup, but on a 302. My Alfa has twin side draft Webers, so I have a connection there as well. Back closer to the real world, a nicely set up Holley would probably be a better compromise, but doesn’t look quite as good.

There you go… that’s a long response without actually answering your question ;)

Cheers!
Glen

Glen,

The Webers do add the WOW! :cool: response from people. Can't count the number of people who stopped by to look at the FIA at the US Vintage Grand Prix and were in awe of the Webers. While I absolutely love them on the race car, I am not sure how well the IDA's would do on the street. They are not really happy under 4,000 rpms and they really love 5,000 rpms and above. If you were to use downdrafts the IDF's might be a better option for the sweet.

A Holley would work just as well too. What ever route you go will be the right one for you. Unless it is parked with the bonnet up, nobody knows what's underneath the bonnet anyways.

Good luck.

Cheers,

Jim

Hi Glen,

So if your donor engine is already EFI, the EFI needs to stay to be emission compliant.

I don't believe you can change back to carburettors, or change the camshaft profile, or compression ratio.

Gary

Correct, Gary. I think a "kerbside" noise test and a CO2 test are all the testing that is required if the engine is to standard/unmodified spec.
Can legally change the engine spec. (carbs/cam/heads) afterwards but would need to undergo the full IM240 test routine....hence the interest in piggybacking on the street rods freedoms. A lot of work to be done to achieve that though!

Cheers,
Glen

Jim, agreed ....Webers do add the WOW factor. If that does eventuate one day in the future, I agree - the IDFs would be more suitable. My high diff. ratio results in my gearing setup equating to a five speed gearbox with no first gear (2.92 diff and w/r Toploader) :eek:

Cheers!
Glen

OK, so Webers are on the "wish list", some time down the track. Got to get this car finished first, huh?

Nice Spring day here, so spent the afternoon out in the Cobra's garage with the door open ..... letting the sun shine in. Job in hand was mounting the battery in a "safe haven".
Took a bit of deliberation/procrastination but in the end, the seemingly obvious solution finally presented itself.

Turned out OK. Waiting on a thumb screw to secure the door, but otherwise, job done :)

Cheers!
Glen

Here are the pictures ....

Glen,

Nice work! Also, smartly placed on the passenger side to help offset the weight of the driver and improve balance.

Jim

The panel for the right hand side was easier/quicker to shape and install...

Progress update….

I’m currently working on fitting the steering lock. Should be an easy job …. except I need to remove the upper bearing to be able to fit the steering lock chopper plate (that’s the disc with holes for the lock pin to engage in).
With that removed, I need to then remove the dash panel so that the chopper plate can be slipped over the steering shaft. Dash removal isn’t a 5 minute job.
However, it’s progressing slowly, with a lot of other jobs ticked of as well, jobs too small to report on, but still essential.

Cheers!
Glen

For road registration purposes, I need an"eye-level" third brake light.
A machined aluminium housing, to be fitted with LEDs, was supplied but it looks way too modern and "techie" for my eye, so I found this nice Lucas light to use instead.

It exudes quality, and looks like it should be fitted on a Cobra ;)

Just came in this week :)

Cheers!
Glen

I like that. How are you going to mount it?:confused:

Excellent choice Glen. Hopefully you can come up with some kind of mounting scheme that avoids drilling a hole in the body, but still meets the requirements. No doubt you will come up with something clever … another AP2289 custom feature. :)