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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 09-11-2014, 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Tenrocca View Post
This bloody clutch is slowing me down more than any number plate....

Unfortunately this is not the "before" photo of tonights work. I was supposed to be driving this weekend but couldnt get the clutch to disengage so pulled the engine out again.
Mate, I hope it comes together ok - good luck - looking forward to catching up with you. cheers Gregg
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 09-11-2014, 02:48 PM
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Tenrocca is it easier to pull engine out than drop the gearbox in your car? No hoist?

And why won't it disengage? I've just done the clutch on mine twice (a learning experience) so curious as to the issue your having....
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 09-11-2014, 02:55 PM
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Andrew, put some guard covers on. You don't want to mark that alloy, I hear its a bugger to refinish.
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 09-11-2014, 04:55 PM
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sppoky: you can't drop the gearbox in a CR, there's too much torsionally rigid chassis in the way
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 09-11-2014, 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by spookypt View Post
Tenrocca is it easier to pull engine out than drop the gearbox in your car? No hoist?

And why won't it disengage? I've just done the clutch on mine twice (a learning experience) so curious as to the issue your having....
Where it is has a plethora of hoists - but there is a cross member in the CR chassis that means you cant drop the gearbox.

My main issue with the clutch was I was using the wrong pilot bearing. The LS1 style which I was using fits further into the back of the crank and the gearbox input shaft wasnt actually extending into it. Broke 2 clutches before I realised the error. The second one is a Tex and they were able to rebuild the centre for me as it had popped out a spring.

Anyway I put it all back together but it didnt disengage at all. It is essentially the exact same clutch with a different pilot bearing. Assumed that maybe the input shaft was binding onto the new bearing, but when we pulled it out (again!) everything measured up fine. The pedal felt like it was fully disengaging the clutch, so stupidly didnt try and bleed the clutch before ripping it all out again. Just assumed I had stuffed something up on the install, as really nothing else had changed. Next step is a new slave and reinstall. Just need to run a few questions by the guy at Tex. who is very helpful.
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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 09-11-2014, 08:24 PM
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Oh interesting. Can you make the offending cross member removable (say as a future mod?)

This is what I have on mine which allows the GB to be dropped out pretty quick.

Strange you have bind. When I had my clutch issues (multiple removals) it was due to incorrect shimming of the TOB. What a pain in the ass that process is. A really agricultural system yet one used a lot in all the racer applications OS. One column of my hoist is covered in calculations trying to get my "thow's" correct. Not much chop for desk jockey like me.

Good luck with getting it all back together proper.

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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 09-11-2014, 08:37 PM
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I think Mike made his removable - probably a good mod if I ever pull it apart again.

Pete from Tex tells me I possibly should need a 15mm spacer on my slave, but it was working before without one, but will measure up and check.

Ill get it going for nats though - being ready too early makes it a bit dull.
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Old 09-11-2014, 10:26 PM
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The earlier square tube CR's have a X frame under the rear of the gearbox, its made from 80mm RHS so its a permanent feature.
Mike removed the cross piece that's under the sump on his, its 25x50mm RHS and I'm not sure what it is even there for.
I'm planning on removing it so as I can fit a later model oil pan on mine.
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  #49 (permalink)  
Old 09-11-2014, 10:53 PM
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The earlier square tube CR's have a X frame under the rear of the gearbox, its made from 80mm RHS so its a permanent feature.
Mike removed the cross piece that's under the sump on his, its 25x50mm RHS and I'm not sure what it is even there for.
I'm planning on removing it so as I can fit a later model oil pan on mine.
Same deal on the Round-tube CR's too. The T56 is pretty long and extends past the big X members.

I actually put the engine and gearbox already bolted together in (with body on) - not sure if thats easier than separating them like Andrew has or not.

Good luck with the clutch - cheers Gregg
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  #50 (permalink)  
Old 09-11-2014, 11:08 PM
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When I have had to remove the auto (there has been many times..) I pull the engine from out the top and then lift the car up with the hoist leaving the gear box on a trolley at ground level.
Works for me!
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  #51 (permalink)  
Old 09-11-2014, 11:34 PM
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For me its 6 bell housing bolts, 4 driveshaft bolts, 2 GB retaining bolts, 4 on the cross member, couple of oil cooler lines and my gear shifter off and its out although I can't guarantee if this is standard BDR or something custom. Pulling the engine to do a clutch on mine would be painful and I'd be clicking the gas axe to cut that cross member out pretty quick!

My rear end was a pain to change ratios so a bit of gas axe action and the offending cross member now bolts in and out. Much much easier.
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  #52 (permalink)  
Old 09-17-2014, 04:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Towmaster View Post
Brad,

As a scrutineer I can tell you that the car does not necessarily need to be registered but it needs to be 'registerable'. For the street classes it needs to have all things that a registered street car would have. working lights, full windscreen, full exhaust, legal tyres etc etc. Your car should pass even if technically it is not registered. Andrew's (Tenrocca) car has passed this test in the past when he was proudly unregistered....
Are there any rules preventing an entrant from competing in two classes?.
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  #53 (permalink)  
Old 09-17-2014, 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Gav View Post
The earlier square tube CR's have a X frame under the rear of the gearbox, its made from 80mm RHS so its a permanent feature.
Mike removed the cross piece that's under the sump on his, its 25x50mm RHS and I'm not sure what it is even there for.
I'm planning on removing it so as I can fit a later model oil pan on mine.
Yep, I made a removable engine cross member. It makes it possible to remove the sump with the motor in place.

Pulling the gearbox still needs the engine out.

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  #54 (permalink)  
Old 09-17-2014, 08:14 PM
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There should be some free garages in Pit lane for anyone who wants one.
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Old 09-17-2014, 08:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rebel1 View Post
Are there any rules preventing an entrant from competing in two classes?.
You probably could Les, as long as the vehicle met the class requirements. You would most likely incur double entry costs though.

You can still win King Cobra from say Class 1 - you just need to be as fast as the very quick buys in Class 4 & 7

This is where I believe it is judged wrongly. A class 2 car will never win King Cobra. I believe it should be awarded to the highest points scorer within their respective class.

King Cobra is often won by a car that may not have won all their events but accumulated the most points due to quicker lap times. If you can beat all comers in your class, then why aren't you awarded the top gong?

Nuff said, I'll just duck now
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Last edited by David Hodgson; 09-17-2014 at 08:55 PM.. Reason: More to say.
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Old 09-17-2014, 09:09 PM
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There should be some free garages in Pit lane for anyone who wants one.
Free, as in available or free as in FREE
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  #57 (permalink)  
Old 09-17-2014, 09:18 PM
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Nah - just available. Had a few previously booked that have been cancelled.
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Old 09-17-2014, 09:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Hodgson View Post
You probably could Les, as long as the vehicle met the class requirements. You would most likely incur double entry costs though.

You can still win King Cobra from say Class 1 - you just need to be as fast as the very quick buys in Class 4 & 7

This is where I believe it is judged wrongly. A class 2 car will never win King Cobra. I believe it should be awarded to the highest points scorer within their respective class.

King Cobra is often won by a car that may not have won all their events but accumulated the most points due to quicker lap times. If you can beat all comers in your class, then why aren't you awarded the top gong?

Nuff said, I'll just duck now

If someone was in a class with very few entries (1), they would almost automatically win king cobra. I think the current system is about right.
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Old 09-17-2014, 10:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Hodgson View Post
You probably could Les, as long as the vehicle met the class requirements. You would most likely incur double entry costs though.

You can still win King Cobra from say Class 1 - you just need to be as fast as the very quick buys in Class 4 & 7

This is where I believe it is judged wrongly. A class 2 car will never win King Cobra. I believe it should be awarded to the highest points scorer within their respective class.

King Cobra is often won by a car that may not have won all their events but accumulated the most points due to quicker lap times. If you can beat all comers in your class, then why aren't you awarded the top gong?

Nuff said, I'll just duck now
That's why they have awards for first second and third in the classes......

The King Cobra title goes to the overall quickest, most consistent, street registered Cobra.

Keith Baxter won the King Cobra Title without winning any of the events, he was just more consistent than the rest.

In 2011, of the five events, I won 3 overall and was second overall in another and still didn't win because I finished 20th (spin off) in the Lumleys lap....

You can be the fastest and still not win, you need to be consistent......

John White won King Cobra in a 4.0 litre naturally aspirated Lexus engined Cobra..... There were plenty of other faster, more higher powered Cobras around that year, but he was more consistent.
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  #60 (permalink)  
Old 09-18-2014, 04:16 AM
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Quote:
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If someone was in a class with very few entries (1), they would almost automatically win king cobra. I think the current system is about right.
Mmmm... Good point
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