Starting issue - Page 3

davids2toys · #1 (**permalink**) 10-26-2018, 12:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by patrickt

No drilling, please. No distributor removal either. I have an extra magnetic pickup kit, so I measured it for you. The button head screw comes up from under the distributor. A 9/64" hex fits it. The locknut is 11/32". Do not pull the distributor out of the engine except as a last gasp solution. But remember, the "orientation" of your magnetic pickup is based on the whim of your engine builder. Also remember that you can turn your distributor one way or another to gain a little room to get your Allen wrench under there. Once you have the screw locked down from turning, just use whatever you can get over the nuts to take them off. Here, I went down to my car and put a mechanic's mirror angled to show you where they are.

Thanks Pat,
So you think the whole bolt is turning huh? I am thinking the bolt treads into the distributor body so if you were trying to remove the nut in a CCW direction, you would be tighten the bolt. That is why I think it is stripped.
If you look at your kit you will see one of those nuts is very close to the frame of the magnet so you cant get a socket on there.
I don't see where the location of the pick up is up to the builder, the hole in the part are going to the fixed location of the bolts? Maybe I am niot understanding you correctly. The reason I mentioned removing the distributor is there is a PDF from MSD that tells you to do it. I tried to post it but it is bigger that the forum limit of 39KB. If you pm me your email I will send it to you.
If I am replacing the hardware does it really matter how I get the nuts and bolts out. I was not sure those bolt were going to be used or the old ones stay in place and act as studs.
There is very little room to work, spinning the dist. around sounds like a good plan...as long as you mark it before moving it...lol

patrickt · #2 (**permalink**) 10-26-2018, 12:53 PM

I meant that the engine builder can place the orientation of the distributor in any direction that he wants, so long as he adjusts the location of the plug wires accordingly. Yes, I think you're just turning the screws, and you get new ones in that little kit. See if you can't just put an Allen wrench in the bottom of the screw and then it won't turn any more and those nuts are going to come right off in a jiffy. Yessirreee, I've got a good feeling about this one....

patrickt · #3 (**permalink**) 10-26-2018, 01:17 PM

... and the reason I am hesitant about you pulling your distributor out is that I have this vision of you writing "the distributor came right up very easily, but as I was lifting it out I heard something go clack as if it fell down in to the oil pan or something...."

Gaz64 · #4 (**permalink**) 10-26-2018, 05:45 AM

Sounds like 5.9 - 6.1K ohms, 5900 - 6100 ohms, way out of spec, considered open circuit.

Change out the pickup, set the airgap, refit the rotor and cap, and fire her up.

davids2toys · #5 (**permalink**) 10-26-2018, 11:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gaz64

Sounds like 5.9 - 6.1K ohms, 5900 - 6100 ohms, way out of spec, considered open circuit.

Change out the pickup, set the airgap, refit the rotor and cap, and fire her up.

I just went out and did the measurements again
The new one is a very steady .59 K ohms, this would equal 590 ohms
The old one is erratic, any where from .59-.72 M ohms which converts to 59000 ohms.

So as you say, scrap the old one for sure
I really don't care for the auto feature on the multimeter. The little M or K is hard to read...sorry for any confusion

davids2toys · #6 (**permalink**) 10-26-2018, 02:13 PM

Yes, I fully understand what you are saying here I did talk to a MSD tech a few hours ago, he said the holes have no threads, so yes, the whole bolt is spinning. I might go out in a few minutes and give it a shot.
He also mentioned drilling holes in the cap to keep the rust and corrosion down by creating one atmosphere. Believe it or not he said (3) 1/4" holes around the base of the cap. I could see maybe (2) 1/8" holes, one on each side. Any thoughts on this? He also mentioned spaying the pick-up and reluctor with WD-40..

Very funny, well I did not think about things going clack into the oil pan when pulling the dizzy was a thought...LOL. I did dread the whole timing thing and oil pump not lining up, etc etc

patrickt · #7 (**permalink**) 10-26-2018, 02:45 PM

Yes, I've been drilling holes in my caps since about the time I posted this thread, which was eight years ago. MSD Distributors - Here's Another Thing I Don't Like

Gaz64 · #8 (**permalink**) 10-26-2018, 04:35 PM

Yes, holes in cap as mentioned.

Like any bare metal, WD40 or oil will help prevent rust.

The rust occurs from bare steel AND the atmosphere within the cap.

Not sure on the torque spec, but not too tight on the pickup nuts.

Gary

davids2toys · #9 (**permalink**) 10-26-2018, 05:34 PM

Hey, this thing is going to run again...YAY!
I installed the pickup and as you said, went pretty good. I am having problems with that anti chafe plastic gizmo the wires go thru. I was running out of time so I gave up on that for now. I connected the wires , powered on the battery, key on, coil wire tester re-installed, hit the remote starter and a beautiful intense blue spark was happily seen! I will pick up after I get back from vacation. Hard to believe it just quit suddenly. I guess if it is going to die, better in your own garage than stranded on the side of the road!
So what about these holes in the cap? What do you guys think of (3) 1/4" holes, I think that is way to much. What size holes did you drill ? Where and how many.
Any advice on that plastic piece that goes around the wires and sits in the hole in the bottom of the distributor.
Lastly, thank you guys for the help with this, I really appreciate it a lot!!! This is what is so great about forums! Hopefully treads like this will help others.
Dave

Gaz64 · #10 (**permalink**) 10-26-2018, 05:40 PM

Did you the pull the wires back through the grommet tube one at a time?

I think the tube goes in the housing first.

davids2toys · #11 (**permalink**) 10-26-2018, 06:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gaz64

Did you the pull the wires back through the grommet tube one at a time?

I think the tube goes in the housing first.

OK, I was trying to put it with both the wires already inside! Does it go in from the top or the bottom? I will try it your way when I get back. I was rushing...never a good thing!

patrickt · #12 (**permalink**) 10-26-2018, 05:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davids2toys

Hey, this thing is going to run again...YAY!

I never doubted you for a moment.

Fish the wires through the anti-strain plastic funnel, solder and shrink wrap the connections, and then you might want to just check the timing since shifting the pickup a little bit from the last one can change the timing a hair.

davids2toys · #13 (**permalink**) 10-26-2018, 07:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by patrickt

I never doubted you for a moment.

Fish the wires through the anti-strain plastic funnel, solder and shrink wrap the connections, and then you might want to just check the timing since shifting the pickup a little bit from the last one can change the timing a hair.

Thank you for the guidance...you were right, pretty easy and I learned a lot!

Are you talking about the pigtail connections? Obviously you must be. Are suggesting I take the wires out of the plastic holders and solder them together where you won't be able to break them apart for trouble shooting or anything else?

Good idea about the timing, if it runs any different, I will do that

patrickt · #14 (**permalink**) 10-26-2018, 07:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davids2toys

Are suggesting I take the wires out of the plastic holders and solder them together where you won't be able to break them apart for trouble shooting or anything else?

Yes, I generally do that unless the circuit requires disconnecting/connecting on a common basis. It's just too easy to cut the wires when you need to, then solder and shrink wrap them back. You never have to worry about a "jiggly" connector or a connection that is prone to unnecessary resistance when it's just a straight soldered connection.

davids2toys · #15 (**permalink**) 10-26-2018, 10:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by patrickt

Yes, I generally do that unless the circuit requires disconnecting/connecting on a common basis. It's just too easy to cut the wires when you need to, then solder and shrink wrap them back. You never have to worry about a "jiggly" connector or a connection that is prone to unnecessary resistance when it's just a straight soldered connection.

I do see your point but soldering and electrical is not a natural for me. I think I will just make sure the connection is clean, tight, and loaded with dielectric grease. I really should practice soldering, I have all the stuff to do it.

Gaz64 · #16 (**permalink**) 10-30-2018, 03:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by patrickt

Yes, I generally do that unless the circuit requires disconnecting/connecting on a common basis. It's just too easy to cut the wires when you need to, then solder and shrink wrap them back. You never have to worry about a "jiggly" connector or a connection that is prone to unnecessary resistance when it's just a straight soldered connection.

Yes that little connector is the most common issue for failure in MSD.
Rubbish pins.

I would replace them with gold plated pins (Male & Female), and run a shielded harness.

davids2toys · #17 (**permalink**) 10-31-2018, 04:26 PM

Yes, I am on the Loveboat in Mt Washington Valley, NH...LOL
I have killer spark now and will button it up when I get home.
Thanks again for the expertise!!!
Dave

davids2toys · #18 (**permalink**) 11-05-2018, 03:57 PM

I am back from the love-boat!
I cant figure out how that Anti strain funnel gets installed correctly. Going in from the top it will not sit down into the recess. I just got off the phone with MSD tech and he started talking about a special tool but I should be able to get it with needle-nose pliers. He said you go in from the top, both wires installed and little trap door installed. I guess you then just squeeze the whole mess together and try to force it in...GEEZ!

patrickt · #19 (**permalink**) 11-05-2018, 04:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davids2toys

I am back from the love-boat!
I cant figure out how that Anti strain funnel gets installed correctly. Going in from the top it will not sit down into the recess. I just got off the phone with MSD tech and he started talking about a special tool but I should be able to get it with needle-nose pliers. He said you go in from the top, both wires installed and little trap door installed. I guess you then just squeeze the whole mess together and try to force it in...GEEZ!

And if you don't install that little anti-strain plastic thing correctly, or if you just wrap your wires up real good with electrical tape thinking that will be just as good, then your engine will explode the first time you rev it past four grand.

davids2toys · #20 (**permalink**) 11-05-2018, 08:36 PM

Yeah, and it wont look pretty either when it blows :>)))